I checked the blue (J9) with the Orange PIN 9 on the J11 connector and the circuit was open.(The Freezer was cold). I checked the defrost tstat (cold) and it was open. So it must be bad. I’m going to order one (along with an ice auger (mine broke), and hope that cures the prob. Defrosting with a hair drier every week is a little much!!
I realize my temps may well be within “standard” range, but I primarily use this unit to keep my beer and I like it COLD. I have a Magic Chef CTB1722ARA and the best I can get is in the area of 39 to 40 in the fresh food compartment and I would like to get it down around 32 to 34. All seems to be operating properly. Is there any way I can lower the fresh food temp, even if raises the freezer above “normal” (which is in the -5 to +5 range, depending on where I set it). Is there some way to “block” some of the air into the freezer so that more goes into the fresh? I have the fresh set at max (7). Do either of the controls (freezer or fresh) affect the thermostat, or is it strictly a pre-set thermostat? Which air temp affects it – freezer or fresh?
Thanks – this is a great site!!
jdr37
Hi Max,
For more accurate advise I need the complete model number of the fridge.
Gene.
Trying to figure out which thing is bad. I am shaky with interpreting the results of multimeter tests.
It’s a GE side by side tfx22qpda
We figured the kids left the door ajar one day. So we took a hair dryer to them, got the ice off, and started it back up. Made it a few weeks, then the same thing happened. We caught it earlier this time, so defrosting the coils was not as time-consuming. Once we finished getting the frost off this time, we plugged it back in but did not reload it and left the coil panel off over night. This morning when I opened the freezer it is already frosting up again!!!
Now I wonder if we have more of a problem than just kids and doors not fully closed.
I got out the multimeter and here is what I found.
Defrost Timer: I turned it until it clicked, and the fan went off. I then waited. Maybe 30 minutes later when I checked the fridge, it was blowing again. I unplugged the fridge and pulled the defrost timer out. I tested spade plugs in this order from left to right as they are listed on the part:
1 4 3 2.
I touched 1,3 and got infinity.
I touched 4,3 and got infinity.
I touched 3,2 and got a reading of about 16.
Then I turned the switch again until it clicked again, and tested in the same order.
1,3 = infinity
4,3 = about 16
3,2 = infinity
I am not sure what this means! Is the switch good or bad?
So to take it further, I removed the defrost heater. I pulled it’s plugs out, placed a tester on each terminal and got infinity.
Am I right that this means the heater is definitely toast? What about the timer? Should I order both, or should the fact that the timer did get things to run and stop running means that it is operating ok?
Thanks
Chuck
Going thru the troubleshooting process described and used throughout this thread. Searched on my Kenmore and located the right model number, 10678202890. Problem is, I’m taken to a page where I can shop for parts… but where can I find these infamousv breakdown diagrams?
Hi Max,
The right part number for the evaporator fan motor for your fridge is 2183828 which is APP item number AP2985747
Gene.
boyboy,
What is wrong with your fridge?
Type the model number of the fridge in the search box.
Gene.
Hi Chuck,
Most likely the problem is a bad defrost heater. I do not think there is something wrong with the timer.
- The part number for the defrost heater assembly is [COLOR=#0066cc]AP2071523[/COLOR]
Gene.
if i bypass defrost themo should it work
If I bypass defrost thermo should it work
If the timer is in defrost mode - yes.
Gene.
hello Gene
i need diagram for this fridg,to check defrost system,magic chef
MCBR1000W,i see frost behind back panel,thanks
The model number you posted does not come up and, unfortunately, we are not able to find any information on-line.
Gene.
,the back of the freezer was a big chunk of ice,i defrosted it,
it looks like i can manual defrost by unplugging? until I can find out what the defrost part looks like i need to replace sometime.
If you can post a pictures of the fridge, it might help to provide more accurate advise.
Gene.
Whirlpool model ED5RHEXNL00
noticed yesterday that the fridge was warm but freezer was still nice and cold. We cleaned off the coils underneath (they were full of dust) and the fridge still hours later is at 50 degrees. No frost in the back of the fridge anywhere inside or out. Poured a tiny bit of water through the drain hole and that is open and clear. Fan is running. Can feel cold air coming out of the top vent into the fridge. What do we try next???
Remove the rear panel in the freezer and check how is the evaporator coil covered with frost. If it’s covered only partially then there is a problem with the sealed system which has 5 years manufacturer warranty. In such case you have to call Whirlpool for free service.
Gene.
We have a Kitchen Aid: KBLA20ELSS00 now a little over 5 years old. It is very clear that the defrost system is not working, within 2 weeks the freezer coils are completely frosted over and only a manual defrost (i.e. unplug the fridge) gets the thing working again.
I have tried to trouble shoot the system based on your advice in here, but I am running out of things to replace. I don’t own an ohm meter, so I tried brute force replacing all possible failure parts. So far i have replaced:
Defrost Timer: AP3492964
Defrost Heater: AP4078863
Thermostat kit: AP3475238
Ice Maker Thermostat: AP3135377
It seems that the new heater is still not heating up and defrosting the ice.
Any tips on what else I should be looking at? I will purchase an Ohm meter to check continuity tomorrow, any ideas what i should do after that?
ok here are some photos of the inside etc.im manual defrosting every 5 days now.it seems to help leaving the cover off as shown.
thanks
P1010007.jpg (59.0 KB)
P1010006.jpg (59.6 KB)
chlear909,
One of most common problem is such situation is a bad defrost thermostat (in the left upper corner). Check this part for continuity while it’s cold and replace if it’s open.
The part number should be marked on the old part. If it’s not ,then it suppose to be the temperature mark, like L50-35 or something like that.
Post your findings and I’ll help you to find the right replacement part.
Gene.
Magic Chef 2.jpg (45.9 KB)
