Gene,
HELP… have a refrig in a cottage on a remote island in the Bahamas thats been givng me a fit, as it has sat idle for about 4/5 years and now that I got it running (had to clean the defrost fan), seems to run fine for a while (a few days) and then the refrig goes warm. However, before getting to that point, it frig compartment gets way too cold, and it constantly runs.
When the frig does get to the warm stage, I remove the back freezer panel and usually see a lot of frost build up in the damper ventway. I clean it out, and am good to good for another few days, but again the frig gets near freezing afdter a couple days.
Am a littel confused after reading about your test on the defrost timer, as I rotate the timer with a screwdirver, which causes it to stop running and the defrost heater comes on. (From your post, does that mean the timer is bad?)
I was actaully thinking the cold control had gone bad and that’s why it was running all the time… or could both the defrost timer and cold control be bad?
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Good job, Thanster!
I’m glad you were able to fix it.
Gene.
Hi Longjack,
Your question has been answered here: http://forum.appliancepartspros.com/refrigerator-freezer-repair/6510-help-installing-cold-control.html
Gene.
Hello, I have a Kenmore limited edition Side by Side model number 596.51673100. I dont see break down diagram of the my fridge on the search page so I cant find the defrost time to trip it. I took the white box off the controls in the fridge side and dont see it there. Is it in the freezer half? If so where at? My fridge side is not as cold as it should be. I turn the temp all the way up and it gets cold finally. Freezer is fine. There is no frost on the back panel of my freezer.
I can’t locate my GE Profile fridge (GSS22JEPHBB) on this website. I have been struggling with this exact same issue for the past 6 months. At that time while looking for a solution I found out that there was a recall on the computer controller board for my model so I replaced it and the problem disappeared.
Recently, about 6 weeks ago the problem re-appeared and I have done manual defrosting twice since hoping that the problem will go away. Well, it hasn’t and I am looking for a permanent solution now. While doing so I stumbled upon this thread and wanted to try out the steps recommended.
I opened up the rear panel of the freezer and the evaporator coil was completely frosted up. The whole thing looked like a frosty block of ice. I couldn’t even visually locate the defrost timer, heater or the thermostat. I have unplugged the fridge and will try and locate them once everything is defrosted.
Meanwhile, it would be great if I could get my hands on the breakdown diagrams.
Norm,
If there is no frost on the back panel in the freezer than there is nothing wrong with the defrost system.
Check if cold air is coming in the refrigerator through the damper control (in the upper left corner in the refrigerator).
Check if the fan in the freezer blows air.
Post your findings.
Gene.
bohemian,
There is no defrost timer in your fridge. The defrost cycle controls by the main control board on the back of the fridge.
Unplug the refrigerator, remove the wire from the “defrost heater” terminal (J9) on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time.
If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors.
If the circuit is open then you have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater (#230 on the break down diagram)and the overtemperature thermostat (#240 on the break down diagram) for continuity.
If any one of them is open - it has to be replaced.
-
The part number for the main control board is AP3950129
-
The part number for the defrost heater is AP3183868
-
The part number for the overtemperature thermostat is AP3884317
-
The part number for the freezer thermistors (they are identical) is AP3185407
Gene.
Thanks for the info Gene. Sorry for the delayed response, I was out of town for a couple of weeks. I just got back and tried out a couple of things that you recommended. Here’s what I found out …
-
On the main control board I couldn’t figure out which one was the “defrost terminal wire” to remove and check with pin 9 on j7 connector ?
-
I disconnected the defrost heater to checked for continuity and it showed 150 mega ohms resistance which I believe should be considered as open. Anyways, I took the defrost heater unit apart and found out that a small section of the heating coil was burnt out. I stretched out the coil a bit and intertwined the two ends and checked the resistance and it showed 5 mega ohms. Don’t know if that’s ok but I reassembled the unit and connected it back in. Hopefully now the coil will heat up and defrost the condenser coil.
I hope that solves my problem. In any case I am going to order the defrost heater and replace it. Just want to find out if that is the only problem or do I have issues with the defrost thermostat too.
- Moreover, I couldn’t figure out how to check for continuity on the defrost thermostat easily without removing the icemaker unit so I put that on hold for some time. If hardwiring the defrost heater coil does the trick then I’ll know that I need to order just that.
I’ll post my findings soon.
Thanks again Gene.
Hi Gene Your intro on this thread really is helpful. I see frost on the back of the freezer cover. So will open that up and have a see. I am not having any luck finding a parts list/diagram for this Crosley Conservator Model # CR11FFWR. Can you help me out with this ? Will pull the frig out and have a look on the back for a print that may help. But if I need parts at this point I am out of luck. My daughter did have the freezer packed pretty good so maybe poor air circulation is the problem … that would be nice. Thanks in advance.
Grayelve,
What was the original problem?
The model number you posted does not come up and I can not tell you exactly which part where is located. Verify the model number and repost it. Also if this is not American model then we are not able to get any information.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;20770]Grayelve,
What was the original problem?
The model number you posted does not come up and I can not tell you exactly which part where is located. Verify the model number and repost it. Also if this is not American model then we are not able to get any information.
Gene.[/quote]
Thanks for your response Gene … The original problem was water dripping into the frig compartment and collecting in the bottom plus the frig compartment was not very cold. Tag in frig wall says assembled in Mexico and the model # is cr11ffwr. Did a search for the heater with that # and I get an available part number for the heater from a site on the net. No luck finding a parts illustration though. There was a print on the back of the refrigerator that was helpful in trouble shooting. Fan was stopped when I opened things up and the heater was hot. I think a gremlin got into the mix because the fan bench tested OK so I checked for voltage to it and It was not there. Went to the Thermostat control and started to pull the connectors off but walah the hot (orange) lead gave an arc and things started working. Frig compartment is holding at 38 degrees and I open the vent control a notch. Will recheck today and wrap a peice of copper wire around the heater to the drain tube for drain insurance. I will give you my update after rechecking my daughter’s frig. Sure would like to find a parts illustration/breakdown for numbers and locations though. Thanks Again
Unfortunately there is nothing available for this model on-line.
Gene.
[quote=Gene;20913]Unfortunately there is nothing available for this model on-line.
Gene.[/quote]
All is well with the frig adventure … Everything working. Thanks for trying to find the illustration/breakdown. Have a good one
[quote=Gene;11650]Before we go further I need the complete model number of the fridge.
Gene.[/quote]
How do replace the compressor Relay;
Model Roper: RT18AKXJW00
Series: EK30107011
Year 07-2000
I was told this is a common problem with this model of Whirlpool?
Southern,
What is the original problem with your fridge?
Gene.
Hi Max,
Remove the two screws holding the freezer floor (#25 on the break down diagram) and pull the floor out.
Remove the rear panel and the fan is yours.
- The part number for the evaporator fan motor is [COLOR=#0066cc]AP3139953[/COLOR]
Here are the break down diagrams for the Whirlpool refrigerator Model ET18GMXHN00
Gene.
I have a ge mod GSS201EPD WW SER# GG276416. I have the same problem. I have to remove the back panel in the rear of the freezer and thaw out the evap coil every 7 days. It doesn’t have a timer like the old ones , but a defrost board. I haven’t checked the defrost tstat yet but I hope that could be the prob as it is the cheepest part. Could this be the defective part? It should check N.O. if warm and N.C. if cold?
Hi Keith,
You were right, the defrost cycle controls by the main control board on the back of the fridge.
Unplug the refrigerator, remove the blue wire from the “defrost” terminal J9 on the control board and measure the resistance between this wire and the neutral orange wire (pin 9 on the J7 connector). The freezer must be cold at this time.
If the reading is about 22 Ohms then the main control board has to be replaced. It is recommended to replace the board together with both freezer thermistors.
If the circuit is open then you have to remove the rear panel in the freezer and check the defrost heater (#230 on the break down diagram)and the defrost thermostat (#240 on the break down diagram) for continuity.
If any one of them is open - it has to be replaced.
-
The part number for the main control board is AP3950129
-
The part number for the defrost heater is AP4355467
-
The part number for the defrost thermostat is AP3884317
-
The part number for the freezer thermistors (they are identical) is AP3185407
Gene.
Thanks Very Much Gene! I will do this later this evening. Your help is greatly appreciated!
Keith
Keep me posted.
Gene.