This was a VERY helpful thread! I have a PDS22MCRBCC bottom freezer Profile that isn’t staying very cool in the hot weather. Everything is quite cooking back there. I pulled the motor out and applied +12V to Y & R with W as RET and it spins nicely.
I don’t hear clicking - so where is the thermostat? Is the board behind this panel that says NEVER open this unless you are a trained technician?
Just FYI - I tossed an AC “Sprite” fan in there and overnight it took the freezer to -6F with it set to -4F! That’s the other reason why I think the thermostat is out of wack.
My installation is pretty tight and it backs up to a wall that the sun beats on so maybe it cooked something on my board? Would appreciate some advice.
If your condensor fan is not working that is the reason for the warm temps. Yes the thermostat is electronic and is a part of the board behind the panel that says techs only. Now it is going to be either the fan motor or the board, but most likely your control board.
Yep, got the part about the fan working with 12v applied. There is no thermostat on this model, everything is controled by the board. You have themisters that take temp readings, and the board takes that info to tell different components what to do.
The repair guy came out, didnt look at anything but the temp display was flickering and said “YUP you got a bad board” … put in a new one and voila… success… that is till I got home yesterday.
My freezer was @ 37 deg and my fridge was at 47… fan was running fine… my compressor has always been almost too hot to touch. everything in the freezer was mushy.:mad: ; the thing was just a hummin as hard as it could… but not much cooling going on.
I unplugged it for a bit and replugged it, and this morning the fridge was at 35 and the freezer was only at 20 deg, still humming away.
I wonder if it could be low on freon?
The new board and service call didn’t cost anything… GE covered it in full, and he even left the bad board… I guess I could try that again if things don’t start working soon.
I am having the same issue with the clicking noise. It started a 2 days ago and I noticed yesterday that the fridge and freezer were not staying cold. Unfortunately, we couldn’t do anything about it yesterday since we were at a wedding all day and we lost all of our food.
The clicking was very intermittent and would go away when we would unplug it and plug it back in or when we would reset the temp settings on the fridge/freezer. After a while or when we would push the ice/water arm and the the panel light would go out and the clicking would resume. It seems to be right in line with the other posts in the thread and was wondering if my board was covered free of charge.
I bought one of these refrigerators in December 2005 it stopped working in July 2007. No cooling and that clicking noise in the back. Have not used it since.
Now I learn by reading this thread that this seems to be common.
Any suggestions as I am PO that this thing lasted 19 months.
I have a similar problem. I hear clicking from the control board in the back panel and have intermittent problems with the ice dispensor not working and the fan motor running erratic. My model number is gsh25jsrfss. Board part # is WKKT 0158-00-04. This has been an ongoing problem for about a year. Would this be covered under the free replacement program?
It is covered, but because of the new program that started yesterday it will cost you $100. If the serial# is within the program and it is 0-3 years old it’s free, 3-5 years $100 and over 5 years is normal pricing, about $300
Mine has been acting up for about 5 days. At 4am it was clicking continously and compressor would not start. I had talked to GE yesterday and they would replace board free if that was the problem but I still had to pay $100 service call but food was getting warm. Instead of waiting for serviceman I went and bought new board for $115 and works good. Ive had to replace 2 evaporator motors in the last 2 years for eratic speed and I think the board could have been the problem all along. Great board Thanks guys…
GE tech just left & replaced my board with # WR55X10552. The best part was that it was done at no charge. He was able to look up the info in his computer that said 0-3years no charge. He said it was normally a $300 repair job.
