I hear clicking noises from the back of my GE Refrigerator (GE GSH25JSRFSS) it seems to be going from the Main Control Board Assembly. The Refrigerator seems to be cool most of the time. My thought is the Main Control Board Assembly is bad and need to be replaced. Should I replace only Main Control Board Assembly or is their more suggested part to be replaced with the Main Control Board Assembly???
The main control board has a few relays on it and when the relay got energized, it clicks.
If there are no problems with the temperature in both parts of the fridge, do not do anything.
Gene.
Thanks Gene
i too have the clicking sound at the back but no cold refrigerator or freezer. I can feel which relay is clicking on the circuit board but it’s soldered in place. can I but just that part and install it myself or do I have to buy the whole board. wchich I sure is expenseive:confused:
[FONT=Times New Roman][COLOR=#800080]stevecr[/COLOR][/FONT]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman]I just replace the Main Control Board (P/N: WR55X10552, $95.00) it took less than 5 minutes to change. I also replace Defrost Thermostat (P/N: WR50X10068, $9.00). [/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000][FONT=Times New Roman][/FONT][/COLOR][/SIZE]
[COLOR=#000000][FONT=‘Times New Roman’]No more [/FONT][FONT=‘Times New Roman’]clicking noises and the refrigerator seems to run smoother, quieter and colder. [/FONT][/COLOR]
thanks for the reply to the clicking noise and you replacing the complete board. I GOT THE PART NUMBER OFF THE RELAY THAT IS MAKING THE NOISE AND GOING TO SEE IF i CAN BUY IT SEPARATELY
Let me know of the outcome.
My Original problem (12 months ago)
Originally my fan ran very slowly so I swapped yellow and red and it started to turn fast so I figured I fixed a misswire from the factory. Well I just took the fan to work and had an Electrical engineer determine what each wire is for:
Yellow=+12VDC
White = Common
Red = appears to be a digital/PWM controlled input (hi=on low=off)
Blue = Tach output (not connected on my fridge)
Apparently the +12vdc from the mother board was failing and swapping yellow and red temporarily allowed the fan to run (till it crashed hard yesterday).
Motor p/n: UDQT24LG3 if you suspect a failed motor ($120.00) you can put 12vdc (power adapter) on red and yellow and negative to white and see if it runs (be cautious of the polarity).
Just recently my fridge started clicking:
if the fan moves a little when the relay clicks (as mine did) unplug the fridge, disconnect the fan at the connector at the bottom of the fridge, wait a few minutes then plug the fridge back in, give it >5 mins to start running, if it runs fine I suggest blowing a fan on your coils to allow the fridge to remain cold (saves your food) until you can get it fixed (as far as I’m concerned this will work indefinitely, especially if GE wont fix it for free)
lol… you’ll get a chuckle out of what GE offered… they will cover the board (because its a piece of crap) but I’m responsible for the service call and labor … WTF???.. it’d cost >$150.00 if I went that route; they wont just send me a new board. you can get a replacement board online for $100.00 but as far as I’m concerned I already gave them enough ca$h for a crappy board and I’m stubborn as hell.
Fridges shouldn’t quit after 16months
ltwta@hotmail.com
Fyi. the pc fan will not provide enough airflow to remove the amount of heat needed. Also if the relay is clicking check the back of the board, the relay may have a bad solder spot you can resolder, if there is no burn mark, a new relay won’t do you any good, you will need a new board.
Dokken, can I get your model and serial#. Also what makes you think the fan was wired incorectly? I am very intersested on this claim as I work on these everyday and since our electronic model refer has been around, can’t say I have seen one wired wrong.
Abadfish
initially My fan was only running at about 30 RPM and I took a current measurement to ground and the source that ran the fan was only sourcing about 12ma of current (no where near enough to run the fan at full speed) the other line that was connected to the control side of the fan motor sourced much more current; so I 1st ran the control wire and the fan +12v wire together to the higher current source wire (red I think) and the fan ran much faster but continuously then about a month later it just dawned on me that it was probably misswired from the get-go I went back and reversed the control and +12 wires at the fan and voila… it worked fine.
I hear you about the CPU fan not moving much air… but since my fan ran about 12 months Moving almost no air I figured it’l do the job just as well if not better than a factory fan that didn’t work at all.
Also I inspected the board, no missing or cold solder joints… apparently theses boards were not engineered adequately so this is a fairly common problem (based on the forums I’ve seen)
I don’t have model and s/n: info handy but its a stainless, profile, bottom freezer purchased at home depot.
Interesting. If you get me your model and serial# I will check on the board, there are certain refers within a certain model and serial# range that Ge is repairing the board for free. It does no good to call and mention this, as the call takers no nothing about it, but I will tell you if yours is covered.
deleted…
I know they said the part was covered, but if it falls within the model serial range, the part, home charge and labor is covered, no cost to you
Well that just don’t make no sense… The lady made it clear that I was on the hook for all but the board itself.
I called again and the story changed; if mine is the part that they have on file (there not sure) then its covered but a service tech has to come out and look at it.
Thanks for your help badfish, I’ll update after the guy comes out and looks at it.
They are call takers and run off a script. They don’t have the info that we techs have. You wont be on the hook if it’s covered, either it is or it isn’t and you can go from there. If you get me the info I need, I’ll be more than happy to let you know.
its model #: PFS22SISBSS
S/N: GL051770
My mother bd WKKT p/n: 0158-04-03
My mother bd GEA p/n: 200D4860G015
My Mother bd model # doesn’t match the one they gave me so apparently I have to call yet again to see what there willing to do about it.
Okay the latest in the saga… since my MB isn’t a WR55X10552 it automatically falls under the “FREE Board replacement program”. We will see how that story changes when I take next Monday off to wait for the repair guy to come replace a board that a monkey could install; rather than send it to me to install myself because as the lady on the phone called me “a lay person” I couldn’t possibly do it myself.
Not gunna buy another GE, heres why: General Electric Profile¿ PFS22SISSS Bottom Freezer French Door Refrigerator Reviews. Buying guides & consumer product reviews at Epinions.com
Ok, well your repair will be covered, that’s good, FYI that fridge is made by either LG or Samsung, GE does not manufacture that fridge they just put their name on it.
Badfish, I edited my original posting … I as wrong about the misswire.
Also, I want to disconnect power from the heater (anti-condensation ckt) around the freezer door. any idea how to do that?
I’ll put it back if it get s sweaty.
Do you not have an energy saver option on the control panel? Look at your board the J12 has a single wire to it I think it’s black. It is located to the right of J7 on the left side of the board. If the wire is there, then that’s your mullion heater wire. Let me know if the wire is there, if not I’ll look further into it.