I have a 5-1/2 year old Bosch SHU5305UC/14. The run cycle continually gets “stuck” in mid-cyle, with the control panel showing either a “2H” code or running down to 1 and staying there. My wife and I are forced to overide and clear the cycle in order to complete the wash run. Very aggrevating.
In looking at some other forums, this seems a very common problem with Bosch dishwashers of this vintage. Most people seem to suggest replacing the Control Module and imply that this is a fairly straightforward fix for someone who has basic mechanical skills. I can’t, however, seem to locate the right part number or any basic directions for replacing the panel. Does anyone have tips or suggestions?
I have a BOSCH SHU3505/UC/U12 and it also shows 2H and basically takes forever to finish a wash cycle - 3-1/2 hours. And we have had issues with all the wash cycles for a while. By reading the posts I also am looking to replace the control module and would like some specs of the unit.
Interestingly, and also, I contacted Bosch customer service directly. This is how they responded:
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]We are sorry to hear of the issue with your Bosch dishwasher. While we respect the right for consumers to write ‘anything’ they wish on blogs, we’re sure you have considered that these statements can never be authenticated or validated. Many times remarks are made that are simply untrue or facts are conveniently left out, which will benefit an angry personality.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]In response to the issue you’re describing, the ‘2H’ is a default that is indicating the previous wash cycle ran longer than it was programmed for. One of the common causes of this is from the type of soap being used (and not necessarily the control board, though it cant be ruled out). [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]If you have been using liquid or gel tab detergents for a period of time, there may be a simple solution to getting the machine to run normal cycle times. Give the dishwasher a ‘vinegar bath’, by simply pouring 2 cups of distilled white vinegar into a bowl and placing the bowl face-up in the lower rack (do not add detergent, do not put other dishes in). Then just run a regular wash cycle and allow the vinegar to ‘wash’ through the system. This will clear the sensors of any filmy residue build up and allow it to start clearly reading the status of the wash again.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]Another issue could be a change in the water inlet temperature. If the dishwasher is not reaching the specified temperature for each cycle, the machine will continue running until it does reach temperature. Try running the hot water faucet a few seconds before starting the machine.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]This will ensure HOT WATER is getting into the machine. Then sometime in the middle of the cycle slightly open the door. If steam comes out then we know the water is getting hot enough.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000] [/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
[FONT=Calibri][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]We hope our suggestions resolve the ‘problem’ for you.[/COLOR][/SIZE][/FONT]
I have a Thermador Dishwasher (Made by Bosch) and have a similar problem. I found on this web site under dishwasher repair a PDF titled trouble shooting bosch dishwashers. In that document it has several trouble shooting tips and several testing proceedures. I found that the solder Joint on the control board got hot and now has a cold solder joint.I thought that I found the problem which was a problem also. After finding that problem I decided to look at the other things that were connected with the long run times and luke warm tempratures. Before I found the troubleshooting guide I thought that the problem was surely the heating element but when I tested it I found it to be good. The test that I did that was recomended was to check the resistance of the NIC which is a thermocouple. The resistance changes as the temp increases. The test was to check the resistance when it was room temp. At room temp it should have registered 55 ohms, mine registers nothing. It is open and the heating element cannot work if the NIC is open. I priced a new NIC at [FONT=Arial][SIZE=1]AppliancePartsPros.com[/SIZE][/FONT] and it is about $35 bucks. The file I downloaded is bosch%20dishwasher%20troubleshoot[1].pdf. It might help you determine the problem so you can order the correct part you need.
I, too, replaced my control module and the dishwasher is back to working again. Part was about $125 and installation took me no more than 15 minutes. Very simple and easy fix.
No, the NIC did not solve the problem. I ended up replacing the control module because after I found the bad solder joint on the old control unit and soldered it and reinstalled it, it still wouldnt work. The funny thing is or I should say the embarrasing thing is, When I installed the new control panel it still wouldnt heat. I was so frustrated by then. I started testing some more and found the NIC was open again. So I tested the old one again and it was closed. Somehow during the process of my installing and replacing parts I stuck the old (Bad) NIC back in. I put the good NIC back in and the dishwasher worked. Then I thought my old control panel must not have been bad. So I tried it again but it didnt work correctly. The LED’s lit up but not like they were supposed too.
Thanks for the update. I just ordered a new control module and it should arrive in a few days. The next problem will be installing it. Any advice on that?
Actually that was the easiest thing to replace. Be carful though when you take the face plate of the front of the dishwasher You can easily break the little plastic tabs off that hold it on. I broke 2 off but was able to glue them back on with Black ABS glue. I had it off once before with no problem but the second time I took it off I forgot how it came off and pried too hard and broke them. Good Luck.
Do you need tools to remove the plastic face plate? Do you have to remove any of the screws? Do you have to remove the front of the door?
I can’t figure out where the pressure points are to get it off?
It’s important to note that, after soldering the bad heater relay connection on the circuit board and reinstalling the control module, you will still initially get a “2H” indication when you start the machine. If you have actually fixed the heater circuit, the indication will clear 15 or 20 minutes later in the cycle when the water reaches full temperature (150?). Then the indication will return to normal. As the Bosch person wrote above, if you open the dishwasher and get a face full of steam at this point, you have fixed the heater circuit.
Also, I just had to solder mine, and it has the 10 amp relay, so the 10 amp relay does not solve the problem. The problem appears to be the board connection sizing, not the relay itself.
I have a SHU5316UC/UC12 that must be about 7 years old. Got the 2H problem, got the same old vinegar and temp and authorized dealer song and dance from Bosch when I asked if any instructions are available for replacing the control unit. Tried the vinegar thing with no change. Ordered the AP2802870 (266746) unit from AppliancePartsPros.com, got it a few days later, works perfect. To replace the unit, I used a star (Torx) wrench to remove almost all of the screws in the back of the door (left 4 that look like they may be door hinge screws at the bottom). The big panel may fall to the floor, so careful. The new unit includes both boards and the plastic case, so it’s just unplug the old, plug in the new. Don’t force the old one out - find a few parts of the plastic case that act as clips and release them. Note - I first tried to just remove the top front door panel, but couldn’t get it to re-attach to the bottom front door panel until I removed it too.
New update 7/22/09. I actually have two of these - the original owners liked to entertain and put two of these in the kitchen. The first one had the 2H problem a couple of months ago, though I didn’t fix it until recently. Now, the other one has developed the same problem. Not going to try the fix-it-with-solder route. Tried the vinegar thing again, and it got rid of the 2H, but it still ran way too long the next time. I just ordered another control unit. Unbelievable.
My model SHU6805UC had the control module replaced 4 years ago and the unit is now almost 10 years old. Now the 2H message appears and the unit takes several hours to get down to 1 and just stalls with water and soap in the bottom of the tub. Pushing “Scrub Wash & Delicate Economy” will make it drain and display CL. This unit cost close to $1,000 new, wondering if I should fix it or just buy a new unit? If I can fix it by installing a $150 part great.
We had same problem of Bosch dishwasher first starting with 2H, then counting down to 1, then suddenly being at 12, then just washing and washing without draining or ending. We pulled out the board and saw the burned out solder per notes somewhere here, soldered it with rosin core solder, & replaced it in the dw. Ran a cycle, it heated up much hotter than it had been, then it would go thru the cycle, altho it began at 62 instead of 72 for the count down. There was no jumping around with the count down, but it stayed stuck on 1 and still would not turn off. So I did a cycle with the 2 cups of white vinegar in a bowl on the bottom rack twice. (Just to be sure I really got whatever I was cleaning clean.) And it is now working just like new. It is 9 years old, so altho we’ve never soldered a circuit board before, it was worth the try. I’ll add the vinegar trick to my yearly maintenance plan. I have heard of this before for clothes washing machines, especially those that do not have a manual lint collector. Thanks so much to everyone who posted this great information.:):)
[quote=SeattlePete;47562]I have a 5-1/2 year old Bosch SHU5305UC/14. The run cycle continually gets “stuck” in mid-cyle, with the control panel showing either a “2H” code or running down to 1 and staying there. My wife and I are forced to overide and clear the cycle in order to complete the wash run. Very aggrevating.
In looking at some other forums, this seems a very common problem with Bosch dishwashers of this vintage. Most people seem to suggest replacing the Control Module and imply that this is a fairly straightforward fix for someone who has basic mechanical skills. I can’t, however, seem to locate the right part number or any basic directions for replacing the panel. Does anyone have tips or suggestions?
Thanks.
Peter[/quote]
Hi Peter,
I have a Bosch SHU5312UC/U12 and just purchased the control module - which I received almost immediately!! The part number is BSH 266746. A repairman quoted me $400 for the part plus $200 installation. The part is $139 and replacement looks easy. However, I have just removed my door panel to replace it and two black brackets fell off. I suspect that they are door guards but I haven’t yet figured out how to replace them. If anyone can clue me in, I will appreciate it. Peter, you may not need to remove the entire door panel. When I got mine off I realized that there is an upper section which is independent. It may depend on your door style but is worth checking.
Jane
Through the use of this forum I was able to run the tests, diagnose the problem, order the control module from APP. After receiving the part very quickly, I realized that I needed a little more help in getting to the control module. I resisted the “don’t force it, get a bigger hammer” approach and pieced together from several posts that there were two screws on the side which held the upper panel in place. I don’t now know whether I needed to remove the whole door panel - I did - but I’m guessing that I could have just removed the upper panel. Either way, the repair was the proverbial “piece-o-cake” and my 10 year Bosch is running like a new one.
This is the second control module in 10 years. The first time I called the Bosch folks who charged me about $100 just to drive to the boonies, $200+ for the unit, plus $100 labor to install. This time $150 including sales tax and shipping. Woohoo y’all!
Many thanks to all of you who posted here and blazed the trail and many thanks to the fine folks at APP for your outstanding service.
