Hello I found article that will help, this website has tons of bosch DW repair help.
I have a SHE56C06UC with the same problem. Due to this forum, I was able to remove and resolder the control board. Thanks to all who contributed the information to make this repair possible. 
Unfortunately, my repair only lasted for a about a week. I may not be the best at soldering, so maybe a better joint would have lasted longer. The truth is the burned joint is only a symptom. I had the relay upgraded by MrMark52. I was only down for a few days and repair cost less than ¼ that of a new board. I’m up and running again. Way to go Mark!
I was having the same problem with my Bosch SHU43C05/43. It would run forever with 1 left on the timer. Inside was not particularly hot when opened at the end of the cycle. Some remaining water in the bottom of the dishwasher.
After searching the internet, finding this and a few other boards describing the problem, I checked the impeller blade and ensured no blockage in the drain hose, ran the diagnostic program (result:heater issue).
I saw MrMark52’s post above. It appealed to me to replace the relay with a better one, rather than soldering the old one or a new board with the under-rated relay.
I was able to get the old board out myself and had MrMark52 replace the relay. I got it back promptly and reinstalled it without a hitch. The result: dishwasher is working great and I saved some money over a new board. Hopefully, this will outlast a new board with the under-rated relay. Thanks, MrMark52.
I have a similar problem except when I press the Scrub wash and Economy buttons it doesn’t reset the control but it starts the Scrub wash from 69 mins instead. None of my other modes or even delay wash buttons seem to work. Does this mean I need to replace the control module. Also do I need to buy any other parts other than the control module like the control front cover etc? Also the water gets clogged at the base so I’m wondering if I need to clean out the filters below to take care of that?
Great site! Ordered the control module and everything worked again.
Putting the bottom door panel back on seemed to be the hardest part!
Removing the top and bottom fascia was straightforward…
the plastic door spacers do drop out when you take the bottom panel out…no worries they just slide over the top screw hinge with the forks facing inward. Mark all wire plug in connectors with a sharpie…I went left to right and had 1-8 (the little red jumper was last).
The plastic control module fit perfectly with the plastic tabs snapping in (they are just shoulder tabs that hook under the galvanized front plate. A small flat screwdriver will help push the tabs in or out for that matter, just look at the control module plastic housing that just came out…snap!
Putting everything back was easy. Just hold door slightly ajar and secure the top fascia with new control module then get a can of patience to lineup the tabs of the bottom panel with the galvanized top front plate. A little luck or else slightly bend the galvanized front plate tabs inwards to allow the stainless male tabs go back in.
It is a hold bottom panel slightly out just to clear the plastic door spacers and push up motion to fit the bottom panel.
Hold the bottom panel then open the door and finish screwing in the torx screws.
Good washer with just enough info to fix from this site.
Just a note of thanks:
I’ve been futzing with my Bosch SHU5315 for more than two years now, making do with the 2H problem, rewashing, re-rinsing, cursing, etc. I called a repair guy who told me it would cost $450 to do the job. That gave me the courage – finally – to take off the #!&@(* front panel and just re-solder the fried relay, like so many people have done.
Holy crap, it worked! After completing a test, the water ran through piping hot again and it cycled as advertised. My wife was utterly astonished, and I must say, I felt like a superhero. Yes, it will probably break down again, but by gum, I’m here to tell you, it’s not that difficult to fix – and it’s very satisfying to do it yourself.
My deepest thanks to all the troubleshooters and public-spirited people who share their information and expertise on this forum.
Just found this site. Looks pretty good. Been a licensed union plumber for 12 years. would also like to contribute here. Thanks
Hi!
My Bosch Dishwasher, Model # SHU9955US/14 (Purchased from Sears) recently started running excessively long during the wash cycle. This machine is about 10+ years old and has run perfectly until now!
When I start the machine on regular wash, the time displays many more minutes than the normal 100 minutes used for the normal wash cycle and take even longer to complete the cycle.
I have taken the door assembly apart to inspect the electrical components and have initially concluded the control module to be the most likely problem.
I really appreciated reading the numerous postings on this forum, that also conclude with changing the control module. This is too costly a part to just purchase a replacement to see what happens.
Upon further searching the internet, I found a proceedure to put the dishwasher in a “Test Mode” by pressing 2 contol buttons: Wash & Power Scrub Plus, simutaenously. Fault code are supossed to illuminate on the digital display to indicate if there is a problem with a sensor, etc. The code/faults chart is as follows:
0 = no errors
1 = a water sensor/ filling fault
2 = a heating fault
4 = a water filling fault
8 = a temperature sensor fault
My intent is to reassemble the dishwasher door enough to run the machine through this test cycle to determine if a fault is diagnoses. My electrical & electronic background still leads me to suspect the control module, but I will approach this repair with an open mind.
Additionally, I was advised by Bosch to run a wash cycle with only a bowl of vinegar set in the bottom rack, face up. They stated that this cleans any film on the various sensors to assure their proper function.
I will post my troubleshhooting finding and repairs needed conclusion after I have completed the above procedures.
DRA (Doug)
Appliancepartspros Part #266746
I resoldered the trace about 8 years ago and no problems with the 2H/run continuously since and didn’t replace the relay (yet). Other problems with this DW are:
- faulty pushbutton plastic tabs which break off due to heat. I bought a plastic soldering kit and gooped lots of extra plastic on these tabs;
- a leaky inlet solenoid which eventually caused an overflow;
- noisy squealing pumps - which the local Bosch repair guy said was due to us precleaning our dishes and not having enough ‘lube’ in the water to keep the pump quiet. We don’t preclean. What a load of crap.
I won’t buy any more European stuff. They design to mininum spec.That is if it takes 10 amps, they design for 10 amps with no safety factor built in which causes the problems we see here.
So, we’ve been having the same type of problems with our Bosch and we are running it through a vinegar bath. It smells like we are getting ready to color Easter eggs, but I’m sure that’s temporary.
To repair any appliance is not very hard job. But some time we get problem like any appliances like, washer, dishwasher or dryer get older 20 years or 30 years then find their part is create problem otherwise it’s okay. 6 month before I was getting problem with my 10 years old bosch dishwasher pump, belt and timer goes bad. The water was not draining. I have checked and replace those parts and now it’s running fine. I done repair job with the help of user manual.
Well, I’m on my 4th replacement (I think, I lost count) of the control module due to the 2H code appearing. All is well now. My question is that when I removed and looked at the board, there was no burnt solder joint like on the original board. Does anyone have any idea what went bad then? I would like to repair it and save it for the next time the module needs replacement.
Also, I still have the original board. Should I try the Tyco replacement heater relay for that board or is that relay only recommended (by Mr Mark, for ex.) for the more recent boards (my original has the led red lights vs the newer board without).
Thanks for any thoughts on preparing for the inevitable “next time”.
Lou
[quote=StratLou;798829]Well, I’m on my 4th replacement (I think, I lost count) of the control module due to the 2H code appearing. All is well now. My question is that when I removed and looked at the board, there was no burnt solder joint like on the original board. Does anyone have any idea what went bad then? I would like to repair it and save it for the next time the module needs replacement.
Also, I still have the original board. Should I try the Tyco replacement heater relay for that board or is that relay only recommended (by Mr Mark, for ex.) for the more recent boards (my original has the led red lights vs the newer board without).
Thanks for any thoughts on preparing for the inevitable “next time”.
Lou[/quote]
If you would like to fix your old board for the “next time”, use the R46-5D12-6 relay. Search Youtube with that number.
I have an SHU5316UC bosch dishwasher that has a lot of the same symptoms you described here: the very long cycles, counting down to 1 and never shutting off, then finally the dreaded 2H code. After reading all the posts here, I replaced the control module and found the repair to be fairly easy.
However, it still is not working.
the 2H code is gone, but the machine isn’t pumping water into the dishwasher.
I pulled out the microfilter and the screen down in the sump, dried out the water, checked for obvious blockage, cleaned and replaced all the parts.
And the timer seems to be wacky – a regular cycle only gets 42 minutes – when I thought that the regular cycle was more like 72 or 90 minutes long.
Does anybody have suggestions on what to try next?
If the maintenance man tells that the heating element is faulty ; this is simple to check out, move out the rightside panel and you could assess the opposition of the heating element (providing you have a tester meter) To me it does n’t create any sense to exchange the thermostat at the same time, in point of fact the heating element comes complete with thermostat (which constists of two mixed bits ; NTC factor and a maximum thermostat.
Possibly this man is n’t rather sure about his own conclusions, at least he doesn.
Our 2006 Bosch DW (SHU43C05UC) started the long run time symptom this week end. Found this forum, followed the thread and downloads to the classic burnt solder connection on the pcb, just a described. Have run 4 loads since my re-solder; a novice looking job, but all is working now. Thanks for the very good info.
Please replaced our control module and the dishwasher is back to working again. Part was about $125 and installation took no more than 15 minutes. Very simple and easy fix. It might help you determine the problem so you can order the correct part you need.