Sorry if this is a repeat post. I’ve seen a lot of people online with this exact same problem, but I have no seen any real solutions. Hopefully, I provide enough details for someone to help.
The washer started off just leaving wet clothes in at the end of a wash. I turned the dial to drain and spin and that seemed to work for a while. I started to notice that when the washer went to the spin cycle, the lid lock LED would blink. Cancelling the load by holding start/pause for 3 secs would cancel the load but the lock LED would continue to blink and the lid remained locked. It would finally unlock on its own after a few minutes.
I thought maybe the load was unbalanced, but even running it with an empty tub resulted in the lock LED blinking and preventing the washer from entering the spin cycle. I replaced the lid lock with part number W10404050, which should be the newer version of this lock. However, this did not fix the problem. Is it possibly the shifter that is the problem?
I ran a diagnostics test, but I do not know how to interpret the blinking lights. Here are the results: All 5 lights blink followed by all 5 lights blinking again. When I turn the dial one click clockwise, I get Sensing-Rinse-Done (1st, 3rd, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. One more click clockwise and I get Sensing-Spin (1st and 4th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Next click of the dial gives me Sensing-Rinse-Spin-Done (1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Finally, after one more turn, I get Sensing blinking alone followed by Rinse-Done (3rd and 5th lights) blinking together. After that, each turn cycles through these same error lights.
I would appreciate any help I could get with this problem. I would prefer not to buy a new washing machine, but I will if the repairs are much too expensive or if the repairs won’t last.
Most likely it’s the shift actuator but this washer design has had many problems. I would first unplug/replug all the wiring connectors. Tilt machine back for access to connectors for motor, capacitor, shift actuator and pump. You might want to pull the pump and make sure nothing is caught in there. Also do the connectors at the control board. Check for error codes as per tech manual and reset them. Perform the calibrate function. If nothing works, replace the shift actuator. It is a very high failure item on this washer design. If you buy it from here and it doesn’t solve the problem, you can return it.
[QUOTE=fairbank56;806705]Most likely it’s the shift actuator but this washer design has had many problems. I would first unplug/replug all the wiring connectors. Tilt machine back for access to connectors for motor, capacitor, shift actuator and pump. You might want to pull the pump and make sure nothing is caught in there. Also do the connectors at the control board. Check for error codes as per tech manual and reset them. Perform the calibrate function. If nothing works, replace the shift actuator. It is a very high failure item on this washer design. If you buy it from here and it doesn’t solve the problem, you can return it.
Eric[/QUOTE]
Fairbanks and StinkyQ, I just went through the same scenario, a couple of weeks ago, with a similar washer, with the same/similar complaint. The consumer tested and replaced several components, conducted most of the diagnostic and test modes, and all checked fine.
I finally contacted someone at the manufacturer, discussed the situation, and the indications, their recommendation was to test or replace the actuator
Apparently, there could be an issue in the harness. I’m still waiting on a response from the consumer I was working with, but thought I would try and help.
I am not sure how to reset the error codes or how to perform the calibrate function. I did unplug and re-plug all of the connectors, but that did not help.
Were you able to interpret the error codes based on the lights I mentioned that were blinking? I think I may just have to get the shift acuator from here and hope that replacing it works.
You are getting multiple error codes. F5E1 lid switch fault, F3E1 pressure sensor fault, F7E1 speed sensor fault, and F0E5 off balance load detected. The tech manual should tell you how to clear the codes. I do not have your manual, there are slight variations between models. You can try going into service mode and when you have all the LED’s flashing, press and hold the start button for 3 seconds. This may clear the codes. You need to read the manual. It will also tell you how to do the calibrate function. Don’t worry too much about the codes. If a part fails, the washer won’t go through it’s proper cycles so error codes can mount up even though there isn’t really other failed parts. Clear the codes, run the calibrate and try the washer. If you just get the flashing lid lock LED again, immediately check the error code again before doing anything else.
[quote=stinkyq22;806840]I am not sure how to reset the error codes or how to perform the calibrate function. I did unplug and re-plug all of the connectors, but that did not help.
Were you able to interpret the error codes based on the lights I mentioned that were blinking? I think I may just have to get the shift acuator from here and hope that replacing it works.
Thanks for the help.[/quote]
Stinkyq, You do have to program into the diagnostics and test modes, in order to reset the codes or calibrate the control, Unplugging the connectors or power cord, doesn’t solve the issue. Just remember, you have to review and follow each step of the procedure and you have limited time(6 seconds) to do it in. The trick is, to review the instructions thoroughly before you start anything, and follow the instructions precisely.
As long as you’re sure you were in the diagnostic/error code program, the light pattern you described would indicate a motor sensor error, motor speed error, (F7 errors), this would indicate an issue in the actuator assembly
and make sure there are no loose connections, twists, kinks, or frayed areas on the wiring. If the wiring is OK, replacing the actuator, and recalibrating the control, should solve the issue.
You had 4 fault/error codes. That is the maximum that it will show. They are indicated from most recent to last. New errors will overwrite older ones once you are up to 4 errors. Errors can be caused by faulty connections, which has been a problem on these washers, hence the advice to check them and the advice to clear the codes.
You were right about holding the start/pause button for a few seconds to clear the error codes in diagnostics mode. The owners’ manual doesn’t say anything about entering diagnostics mode, understanding the codes, or recalibrating anything. Instead, I just took my chances and ordered the shift actuator and hoped it worked.
I reset the error codes, changed the part out, and tested a wet towel on drain and spin. It made it through to the end of the cycle without any problems whatsoever. I hope this means that the problem is fixed for good (or until the part breaks again in a few months).
Thank you so much for your help. I had been looking all over the internet seeing people with the same problem and a lot of “experts” saying they need to change all of these expensive parts. You saved me a lot of money because I was going to buy a new washer but the store didn’t have the one I wanted in stock.
For those of you who have this same problem with the Kenmore/ Whirlpool/ Maytag washer that won’t spin and a lid lock LED that just blinks, try changing the shift actuator. I wasted money changing the lid lock, but chaging the actuator worked and it only cost about $50 and got here a day after ordering online.
[quote=stinkyq22;807041]You were right about holding the start/pause button for a few seconds to clear the error codes in diagnostics mode. The owners’ manual doesn’t say anything about entering diagnostics mode, understanding the codes, or recalibrating anything. Instead, I just took my chances and ordered the shift actuator and hoped it worked.
I reset the error codes, changed the part out, and tested a wet towel on drain and spin. It made it through to the end of the cycle without any problems whatsoever. I hope this means that the problem is fixed for good (or until the part breaks again in a few months).
Thank you so much for your help. I had been looking all over the internet seeing people with the same problem and a lot of “experts” saying they need to change all of these expensive parts. You saved me a lot of money because I was going to buy a new washer but the store didn’t have the one I wanted in stock.
For those of you who have this same problem with the Kenmore/ Whirlpool/ Maytag washer that won’t spin and a lid lock LED that just blinks, try changing the shift actuator. I wasted money changing the lid lock, but chaging the actuator worked and it only cost about $50 and got here a day after ordering online.
Thanks again for all the help.[/quote]
Stinkyq22, I wish I would have found this thread before I too bought the lid lock and realized that wasn’t the issue. I am hopefully finding a store tomorrow and getting the actuator and seeing if that does the trick. Here’s to hoping. I will report back if it works and hopefully help someone else with dirty laundry piled to the hills.
[QUOTE=stinkyq22;806682]Sorry if this is a repeat post. I’ve seen a lot of people online with this exact same problem, but I have no seen any real solutions. Hopefully, I provide enough details for someone to help.
The washer started off just leaving wet clothes in at the end of a wash. I turned the dial to drain and spin and that seemed to work for a while. I started to notice that when the washer went to the spin cycle, the lid lock LED would blink. Cancelling the load by holding start/pause for 3 secs would cancel the load but the lock LED would continue to blink and the lid remained locked. It would finally unlock on its own after a few minutes.
I thought maybe the load was unbalanced, but even running it with an empty tub resulted in the lock LED blinking and preventing the washer from entering the spin cycle. I replaced the lid lock with part number W10404050, which should be the newer version of this lock. However, this did not fix the problem. Is it possibly the shifter that is the problem?
I ran a diagnostics test, but I do not know how to interpret the blinking lights. Here are the results: All 5 lights blink followed by all 5 lights blinking again. When I turn the dial one click clockwise, I get Sensing-Rinse-Done (1st, 3rd, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. One more click clockwise and I get Sensing-Spin (1st and 4th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Next click of the dial gives me Sensing-Rinse-Spin-Done (1st, 3rd, 4th, and 5th lights) followed by Done blinking alone. Finally, after one more turn, I get Sensing blinking alone followed by Rinse-Done (3rd and 5th lights) blinking together. After that, each turn cycles through these same error lights.
I would appreciate any help I could get with this problem. I would prefer not to buy a new washing machine, but I will if the repairs are much too expensive or if the repairs won’t last.[/QUOTE]
This sounds exactly like my problem. I’ve read through your entire thread and am ready to try this on my machine. My model is a Maytag Bravos #MVWX500XW1. Does your model have an LED display on the front of the washer? Mine does not. Does anyone know if there are internal indicators to show the error codes? I’ll have to look inside the machine for a manual, but I’m wondering if I should go ahead and order a shift actuator? Did you also replace the lower washer wire harness as recommended?
Since I was having the same lid lock problem described by stinkyq22 my husband replaced the shift actuator. I did not run an entire cycle; however, the lid lock did not blink during sensing like it had been so for now I’m assuming it’s fixed that problem. Another problem surfaced once he got underneath…oil on the shield covering the belt/pulley area. Any suggestions about what might be causing this? He did not find a manual inside. This model (MVWX500XW1) does not have a front panel status indicator.
Thanks.
Probably a leaking transmission, another common problem with this washer. This Whirlpool washer design is a total piece of junk. An astounding number of failures on a 3 year old design.
Yep I’m currently running into this exact same problem with my less than 3 yr. old lightly used MVWC300XW0 Maytag Centennial washer. Door lock light flashes after the machine tries to go into any kind of spin mode. Luckily it will actually spin out at low speed after a wash cycle and even then go on to the rinse cycle with the load. Only after the rinse cycle does it actually stop the washer after attempting to spin out with the door lock light flashing and after about 5 minutes, it will then just sit with the just spin light illuminated solid and then unlock the door. At least the clothes weren’t soaked with soapy water :eek: . They were just soaking wet :rolleyes: . I was able to get it to run 1/2 the time thru a spin by selecting drain & spin on the control knob. But it finally stopped spinning after doing that as well, even after trying it repeatedly.
After tilting it back and looking up underneath, I had found out that luckily my washer did have a service manual taped to the inside of the front cabinet by the tub. Reading thru the manual, I’ve performed the trouble code retrieval and found 3 codes. 1) Main control, 2) key code fault of some sort which occurs only during the diagnostic procedure?, and 3) a basket speed fault. Then performing the electrical checks for the main control trouble code fault, I come to find out that the shift actuator’s optical speed sensor circuit shows very low voltage at 2.15V. versus the needed 13+V. So, according to the service manual the shift actuator is to be replaced if after checking out that the wiring is ok and not shorted out between the control and the shift actuator. After unplugging the actuator harness from the control, the voltage would actually rise to 13.2v. inside the control board. So, perhaps the optical speed sensor was sapping the main control’s voltage supply to it. So, I’m awaiting the arrival of the shift actuator as I had typed this and will update if it’s fixed or not…
[QUOTE=ShadeTree231;851044]Yep I’m currently running into this exact same problem with my less than 3 yr. old lightly used MVWC300XW0 Maytag Centennial washer. Door lock light flashes after the machine tries to go into any kind of spin mode. Luckily it will actually spin out at low speed after a wash cycle and even then go on to the rinse cycle with the load. Only after the rinse cycle does it actually stop the washer after attempting to spin out with the door lock light flashing and after about 5 minutes, it will then just sit with the just spin light illuminated solid and then unlock the door. At least the clothes weren’t soaked with soapy water :eek: . They were just soaking wet :rolleyes: . I was able to get it to run 1/2 the time thru a spin by selecting drain & spin on the control knob. But it finally stopped spinning after doing that as well, even after trying it repeatedly.
After tilting it back and looking up underneath, I had found out that luckily my washer did have a service manual taped to the inside of the front cabinet by the tub. Reading thru the manual, I’ve performed the trouble code retrieval and found 3 codes. 1) Main control, 2) key code fault of some sort which occurs only during the diagnostic procedure?, and 3) a basket speed fault. Then performing the electrical checks for the main control trouble code fault, I come to find out that the shift actuator’s optical speed sensor circuit shows very low voltage at 2.15V. versus the needed 13+V. So, according to the service manual the shift actuator is to be replaced if after checking out that the wiring is ok and not shorted out between the control and the shift actuator. After unplugging the actuator harness from the control, the voltage would actually rise to 13.2v. inside the control board. So, perhaps the optical speed sensor was sapping the main control’s voltage supply to it. So, I’m awaiting the arrival of the shift actuator as I had typed this and will update if it’s fixed or not…[/QUOTE]
ShadeTree, You’ve got it diagnosed properly, and ready to repair. Just remember to make sure you have a good tight fit on the connector and wires to the actuator when you install the part.
Well another update, I got the new optical speed sensor/shift actuator assembly installed today. I did some preliminary testing on its optical speed sensor to see if there were any changes in volt readings vs. the old one. Needless to say, I got an even lower reading of 1.81V (vs. the old one’s 2.15V) with the new unit installed and plugged in to the main control. The manual calls for a 13V reading! So, I was beginning to wonder either I got a faulty new unit, there’s something wrong with the main control’s power supply circuit for that sensor, or the simply that the manual’s test procedure calling for a 13V reading with the optical speed sensor plugged into the main control is incorrect. After checking that, I cleared all the trouble codes & then had the machine calibrate itself before then starting it.
Before starting it though, I wanted to observe the wash load in the machine as it was running. The only way I could do this was to remove the door lock latch off the door and plug it into the door lock unattached to the door. I held it in place with tape so it wouldn’t move around in the lock either. This would allow me to lift the door at any time, or to prop it open to look at it continuously.
I ran two loads of wash thru it-with the first load a fairly medium size, and the second load a heavy, more typical, load. The machine did fine with both loads, finishing in at ~70 mins. for both. Everything went smoothly as far as I could tell. I then afterwards checked for trouble codes and there were none. So, perhaps other than replacing with a known good one, there is no real accurate way of testing a for failing (ie not completely dead) optical speed sensor? BTW I did perform the tach test, and the old sensor did flash all the led lights as it should and I did this for several minutes to see if anything weird happened, it did fine.
Hope my experience helps someone out…
[QUOTE=ShadeTree231;851265]Well another update, I got the new optical speed sensor/shift actuator assembly installed today. I did some preliminary testing on its optical speed sensor to see if there were any changes in volt readings vs. the old one. Needless to say, I got an even lower reading of 1.81V (vs. the old one’s 2.15V) with the new unit installed and plugged in to the main control. The manual calls for a 13V reading! So, I was beginning to wonder either I got a faulty new unit, there’s something wrong with the main control’s power supply circuit for that sensor, or the simply that the manual’s test procedure calling for a 13V reading with the optical speed sensor plugged into the main control is incorrect. After checking that, I cleared all the trouble codes & then had the machine calibrate itself before then starting it.
Before starting it though, I wanted to observe the wash load in the machine as it was running. The only way I could do this was to remove the door lock latch off the door and plug it into the door lock unattached to the door. I held it in place with tape so it wouldn’t move around in the lock either. This would allow me to lift the door at any time, or to prop it open to look at it continuously.
I ran two loads of wash thru it-with the first load a fairly medium size, and the second load a heavy, more typical, load. The machine did fine with both loads, finishing in at ~70 mins. for both. Everything went smoothly as far as I could tell. I then afterwards checked for trouble codes and there were none. So, perhaps other than replacing with a known good one, there is no real accurate way of testing a for failing (ie not completely dead) optical speed sensor? BTW I did perform the tach test, and the old sensor did flash all the led lights as it should and I did this for several minutes to see if anything weird happened, it did fine.
Hope my experience helps someone out…[/QUOTE]
Shade Tree, Thanks for the update information. Low DC voltage, can be “tricky” to test for, and can give a lot of false readings. Quite often, you have to use the L1 power supply as a “common” ground lead and test the DC voltage supply wires for the correct voltage. But based on the information, you’ll be fine for quite a while. Thanks Again.
Following this thread as I have same problem with a Kenmore,
The actuator part # is the same for my machine also.
Wanted to help anyone else trying to find the diagnostic sheet for the error codes. I took my washer apart and could not find the sheet.
Decided to look again - took it apart again and it was taped onto the front panel (on the metal front facing of the tub enclosure). It was easy to miss the first time I looked, had to apply pressure to move the drum/tub over to even be able to see it.
Makes me think that us homeowners are NOT supposed to find the darn thing when it is hidden like that.
So finding the codes - how to run the diagnostics- and recalibrate etc – could be different for all the models - and without that diagnostic code sheet – very frustrating.
So make sure to really search for it in the machine.
Mine was glued on & in a plastic bag that had to be ripped to get it off the machine.
Thanks for all the info shared in this thread. It has been a huge help!!
Appreciated.
[QUOTE=wash3r;853686]Following this thread as I have same problem with a Kenmore,
The actuator part # is the same for my machine also.
Wanted to help anyone else trying to find the diagnostic sheet for the error codes. I took my washer apart and could not find the sheet.
Decided to look again - took it apart again and it was taped onto the front panel (on the metal front facing of the tub enclosure). It was easy to miss the first time I looked, had to apply pressure to move the drum/tub over to even be able to see it.
Makes me think that us homeowners are NOT supposed to find the darn thing when it is hidden like that.
So finding the codes - how to run the diagnostics- and recalibrate etc – could be different for all the models - and without that diagnostic code sheet – very frustrating.
So make sure to really search for it in the machine.
Mine was glued on & in a plastic bag that had to be ripped to get it off the machine.
Thanks for all the info shared in this thread. It has been a huge help!!
Appreciated.[/QUOTE]
Wash3r, Thanks for the input, it should be helpful to others who decide to take on a DIY project. Your guess is correct, the tech data sheet and diagnosis information will vary by model or serial number, so you can’t really count on a “general” code or diagnostics chart. You really need to find that tech data sheet, or attempt to get a copy of it, it makes diagnosis and repair a lot easier. Thanks Again
Thanks for the info re: the “hidden” diagnostic code sheet. Not sure this will help as my machine does not have the digital front panel. I posted another problem (on 4/14/14-“clicking noise”). Haven’t received any replies. When shift actuator was replaced, noticed oil leaking from the shield. Expert noted it was probably transmission. Clicking is most noticeable during spin, especially as it slows. Gets worse after 2 consecutive loads. I do not notice the clicking during wash cycle. By the 3rd or 4th load it is slightly noticeable during sensing. Not sure which part might need replacing. Gearcase? Motor-drive?