[QUOTE=kkgraham;853699]Thanks for the info re: the “hidden” diagnostic code sheet. Not sure this will help as my machine does not have the digital front panel. I posted another problem (on 4/14/14-“clicking noise”). Haven’t received any replies. When shift actuator was replaced, noticed oil leaking from the shield. Expert noted it was probably transmission. Clicking is most noticeable during spin, especially as it slows. Gets worse after 2 consecutive loads. I do not notice the clicking during wash cycle. By the 3rd or 4th load it is slightly noticeable during sensing. Not sure which part might need replacing. Gearcase? Motor-drive?[/QUOTE]
Kkgraham, Once you retrieve the tech data sheet, and review the information you’ll be able to read and understand the display lights on the console, the light pattern(s) during the test mode, will direct you to the possible cause of the code.
As for the "clicking noise, since you’ve replaced the actuator, the next checks are at the belt and pulley, they could be loose and making the noise, and or the “splutch” assembly and linkage from the actuator. If the gears aren’t aligned properly, the splotch will make a clicking noise
Finding the code diagnostic sheet.
(well hidden between the drum/tub on front panel for my model)
My Kenmore has the LED lights but not the one that actually shows -by identifying/displaying - the ‘F’ or ‘E’ errors.
Instead the LEDs flash on, wash, rinse , rinse drain, cycle complete, lid lock.. Different series of flashing represents the code faults. kkgraham - sorry if it does not apply.
Thought I should throw that in tho for people chancing across this thread, that may not realise that just because their washer may not display a Letter -then -Number error code - doesn’t meant the LED’s are not saying something:>)
As to the acutator - that this part fails so often really makes me question the reliability of any of these machines built out of ‘plastic’ parts.
They are very easy to replace - except for the cost. Or for the consumer to figure out which part needs switching out if they don’t have/can’t find the diagnostic code chart.
That the ‘Lid lock’ seems to flash for every other fault - But lid lock issue, does not make it easy for the consumer. That the diagnostic code sheet inside the machine has a small section that explains troubleshooting the LED’s to the home consumer (along with all the codes for the service tech) but is not on the manual given to the consumer is reprehensible.
(Wish this site shipped to Canada - I’m looking at double the prices here for the actuator)
Glad I kept my ol analog washer in storage. The coupler is going to cost 17 dollars and has been redesigned with metal ( because that failing part was mainly plastic also) Kenmore again.
Thanks again guys for sharing the info,
Trisha
[QUOTE=wash3r;853712]Finding the code diagnostic sheet.
(well hidden between the drum/tub on front panel for my model)
My Kenmore has the LED lights but not the one that actually shows -by identifying/displaying - the ‘F’ or ‘E’ errors.
Instead the LEDs flash on, wash, rinse , rinse drain, cycle complete, lid lock.. Different series of flashing represents the code faults. kkgraham - sorry if it does not apply.
Thought I should throw that in tho for people chancing across this thread, that may not realise that just because their washer may not display a Letter -then -Number error code - doesn’t meant the LED’s are not saying something:>)
As to the acutator - that this part fails so often really makes me question the reliability of any of these machines built out of ‘plastic’ parts.
They are very easy to replace - except for the cost. Or for the consumer to figure out which part needs switching out if they don’t have/can’t find the diagnostic code chart.
That the ‘Lid lock’ seems to flash for every other fault - But lid lock issue, does not make it easy for the consumer. That the diagnostic code sheet inside the machine has a small section that explains troubleshooting the LED’s to the home consumer (along with all the codes for the service tech) but is not on the manual given to the consumer is reprehensible.
(Wish this site shipped to Canada - I’m looking at double the prices here for the actuator)
Glad I kept my ol analog washer in storage. The coupler is going to cost 17 dollars and has been redesigned with metal ( because that failing part was mainly plastic also) Kenmore again.
Thanks again guys for sharing the info,
Trisha[/QUOTE]
Trisha, Like most everything else, despite the flashing lights or LED’s, which direct you to a possible cause for a malfunction, that’s when the time and experience come into play, and that’s where the Repair Forum comes in handy. The people here can and will try and direct you to the most likely issue based on the information you supply. For instance, the lid lock assembly or switch is a pretty simple device and can be checked pretty easily. But numerous lid lock failure codes could also indicate an issue in the circuitry of the sensors in the actuator. Improper or false readings to the control board from the actuator, would cause the lid lock to malfunction, and produce a lid lock failure code.
We have a really good group of knowledgeable and experience people on board at APP, and can usually get you pointed in the right direction in a short period of time.
When you install the coupler on the other washer, the metal inserts will probably cause a tight fit when installed on the shaft(s), be ready to “tap” them into place with a socket and small hammer or similar tool. Good Luck
Thanks,
I could install a new actuator - but in honesty looking at design of the part (the plastic) when I had it out of the washer, decided the ol analog washer was looking mighty good.
The ol machine is already up and running as of this morning with new coupler.
The actuator on the newer HE Digital machines appears to be a chronic problem for failure: re searches on the net along with -Local parts store tech said 9 times out of 10 it is the actuator causing issues when I was pricing part).
( wish you guys shipped to Canada:>)
Tho it is great fun to see the digital washer light up light like a 747 dashboard when recalibrating etc… If the manufacturers are not addressing what appears to be a chronic issue… the ol analog is looking pretty good in comparison ;>)
So decision to go back to it was not dependent on being unable to find info on how to repair the newer washer, as this thread/site was beyond helpful in determining the issue with it!
This is a GREAT sight and I appreciate the APP team…trust them way more than I do the manufacturers of these so called washing machines!! Thank you Joe/APP team and Washr3 for responding. I finally understand that even though this washer does not have the digital indicator I can troubleshoot the problem using the LED lights and their flashing pattern. Next step…go find the hidden diagnostic code sheet! Will also check the belt/pulley and “splutch” for the clicking noise. Re: the oil…seemed to be from the gearcase or motor drive. Since you sell these, I’m assuming they’re fairly easy to replace.
kkgraham
I found this when i first started searching. It got me into the diagnostics - tho the code flashes may not have applied to my model. ( managing to find the diagnostics sheet helped there). May get you into yours by following the directions- then what… I dunno:>)
anyhow here is the link to video - to give you an idea of some of the steps to break into fort knox:>) aka diagnostic codes. May work on your model - but then figuring out the codes .. is another search entirely.
Edit to add - on reveiwing the video - I remember had to press the pause start button for 3 seconds first before doing the steps that are first described on this video. This video was for a whirlpool and my washer is a Kenmore. It would not go into diagnostics without doing that first- 3 second or more hold of the start/pause button. Needed to be done with no lights displaying at all on the machine. When pressing for that amount of time the lights did not come up. The lights came up once I did the dial twists described in the video.
Obviously there may be small tweeks needed to make the method in the video work for different models - if it will work at all on some?
You will still need the right diagnostic code sheet tho for own individual washer to interpert your results correctly. Whirlpool Vertical Modular Washer (VMW): Tech Sheet, Diagnostic Mode, Fault Codes, and Mode Shifter - YouTube
[QUOTE=wash3r;853731]kkgraham
I found this when i first started searching. It got me into the diagnostics - tho the code flashes may not have applied to my model. ( managing to find the diagnostics sheet helped there). May get you into yours by following the directions- then what… I dunno:>)
anyhow here is the link to video - to give you an idea of some of the steps to break into fort knox:>) aka diagnostic codes. May work on your model - but then figuring out the codes .. is another search entirely.
Edit to add - on reveiwing the video - I remember had to press the pause start button for 3 seconds first before doing the steps that are first described on this video. This video was for a whirlpool and my washer is a Kenmore. It would not go into diagnostics without doing that first- 3 second or more hold of the start/pause button. Needed to be done with no lights displaying at all on the machine. When pressing for that amount of time the lights did not come up. The lights came up once I did the dial twists described in the video.
Obviously there may be small tweeks needed to make the method in the video work for different models - if it will work at all on some?
You will still need the right diagnostic code sheet tho for own individual washer to interpert your results correctly. Whirlpool Vertical Modular Washer (VMW): Tech Sheet, Diagnostic Mode, Fault Codes, and Mode Shifter - YouTube[/QUOTE]
Wash3r, being a Sears/Kenmore machine, you’re going to want to find and use the tech data sheet attached to the cabinet front panel interior. The methods and codes maybe the same as a Whirlpool washer, but we can’t be sure. Sometimes Sears requires the manufacturer to make subtle changes in the procedures and nomenclature for the machines using the Sears/Kenmore Logo.
I did use the right codes for my machine.
Just thought this was a really good video for explaining what the code sheet would look like and how to get into diagnostic mode. Plus give basic understanding of interpreting the codes once there:>)
Did add the [COLOR=Red]caveat[/COLOR] that codes would be different for models - so the video tho informational would not necessarily apply to one’s model.
[QUOTE=wash3r;853743]I did use the right codes for my machine.
Just thought this was a really good video for explaining what the code sheet would look like and how to get into diagnostic mode. Plus give basic understanding of interpreting the codes once there:>)
Did add the [COLOR=Red]caveat[/COLOR] that codes would be different for models - so the video tho informational would not necessarily apply to one’s model.[/QUOTE]
Wash3r, Thanks, we understood that, but you’d be surprised.
A really good post, thanks for the effort and time. Great jog .
[QUOTE=wash3r;853743]I did use the right codes for my machine.
Just thought this was a really good video for explaining what the code sheet would look like and how to get into diagnostic mode. Plus give basic understanding of interpreting the codes once there:>)
Did add the [COLOR=Red]caveat[/COLOR] that codes would be different for models - so the video tho informational would not necessarily apply to one’s model.[/QUOTE]
Wash3r, Thanks, we understood that, but you’d be surprised.
A really good post, thanks for the effort and time. Great job.
I have Whirlpool (WTW5640XW0) with F7E1 error code. I believe that I need the shift actuator but would like to troubleshoot further to confirm before buying.
I have cleared all error codes and ran through auto test mode. Still getting F7E1. Did a couple of manual test and I am not able to get any movement from the drum, nothing at all. So is the shift actuator still a possible issue. Shouldn’t I get at least some movement from the drum?
[QUOTE=burchis;871164]I have Whirlpool (WTW5640XW0) with F7E1 error code. I believe that I need the shift actuator but would like to troubleshoot further to confirm before buying.
I have cleared all error codes and ran through auto test mode. Still getting F7E1. Did a couple of manual test and I am not able to get any movement from the drum, nothing at all. So is the shift actuator still a possible issue. Shouldn’t I get at least some movement from the drum?[/QUOTE]
Burchis, We’re pretty sure (99.9%) you’re going to need the shift actuator assembly AP6014711
Just based on your description of the issue and the error code. If you wish to troubleshoot it further, you’ll need a multi meter AP5641751
and start testing the wires and circuits at the main control board on page 12 of the Tech Data Information Sheet. The first thing to do is unplug the power cord open the lid and turn the tub by hand. That way we know there’s nothing jammed between the tubs. Then check the harness connection at the actuator to make sure there’s nothing loose or dislodged. Then conduct the resistance and voltage checks at the main control board per the tech data sheet. Good Luck
Installed new shift actuator and still F7E1 error. I am getting a humming sound at time motor should be on, wonder if capacitor is bad? How often can it be capacitor? I did the miltimeter test on capacitor and it seems good. Is there any way to directly test motor? I could easily make some wire pigtail. Has anyone ever done this?
[QUOTE=burchis;871592]Installed new shift actuator and still F7E1 error. I am getting a humming sound at time motor should be on, wonder if capacitor is bad? How often can it be capacitor? I did the miltimeter test on capacitor and it seems good. Is there any way to directly test motor? I could easily make some wire pigtail. Has anyone ever done this?[/QUOTE]
Burchis, To the best of our knowledge, no, no one has attempted to run a motor on a test cord for this style washer, as of yet. It doesn’t look that difficult, or involved, but without the necessary information, you may not want to try it. You can check for the proper 120 VAC at the motor harness connector. It’ll be a little difficult but doable. Disconnect the harness from the motor , program the test mode and check for 120 VAC across the white and orange wire, then check for 120 VAC across the white and red wires, when you switch directions at the control board. That will confirm that the control and wiring is correct and you’ll need the motor. if the voltage isn’t proper, you’ll have to check the voltage out of the control board at the J16 connector, then check the wiring from the control to the motor.
Here are a few of things that I have troubleshooted:
I have removed the shift actuator and shifted the lever between spin and agitate and the drum easily turns in either mode by rotating the drum pulley by hand.
I have good continuity between the motor and J16 connector wires.
I have removed the main control board and physically inspected for anything obviously wrong. Reassembled the board and verified that all connectors were securely connected to board. At this point I cleared error codes, ran calibration test, and then auto test mode again. Same problem occurred- error at test #12 (motor spin). Checked error code and it was F7E1 (basket speed sensor fault) Problem is- the basket never spins. I did observe the drive belt turning about 2-3 inches all along hearing a humming noise.
I have completed motor voltage test but did not get what I expected. I wish to repeat test but first want to get clarification on few things.
Please confirm that the test mode that I should use is the manual test mode #9 (low spin) and do I ‘push and release’ or ‘push and hold’ the start button to begin that test? At this moment should I see 120 vac on my meter?
[QUOTE=burchis;871851]Here are a few of things that I have troubleshooted:
I have removed the shift actuator and shifted the lever between spin and agitate and the drum easily turns in either mode by rotating the drum pulley by hand.
I have good continuity between the motor and J16 connector wires.
I have removed the main control board and physically inspected for anything obviously wrong. Reassembled the board and verified that all connectors were securely connected to board. At this point I cleared error codes, ran calibration test, and then auto test mode again. Same problem occurred- error at test #12 (motor spin). Checked error code and it was F7E1 (basket speed sensor fault) Problem is- the basket never spins. I did observe the drive belt turning about 2-3 inches all along hearing a humming noise.
I have completed motor voltage test but did not get what I expected. I wish to repeat test but first want to get clarification on few things.
Please confirm that the test mode that I should use is the manual test mode #9 (low spin) and do I ‘push and release’ or ‘push and hold’ the start button to begin that test? At this moment should I see 120 vac on my meter?
Thanks[/QUOTE]
Burchis, Yes you should be using the manual test mode, and you should be able to press and release the start button. There is a five minute time limit on the test segments, but it shouldn’t take you that long. Then you want to switch to the other direction and check for 120 VAC .
Yes, once you have the selection made and the start button pressed, you should see 120 VAC on your meter display.
When you resistance test a circuit with a meter, you can get a "false " reading. Though a little dangerous a voltage test is a bit more positive. and indicative of possible problems. If you’re not getting the correct voltage at the motor connector harness, but you have the correct voltage at the control board, then the problem is in the wire harness between the two components.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;871910]Burchis, Yes you should be using the manual test mode, and you should be able to press and release the start button. There is a five minute time limit on the test segments, but it shouldn’t take you that long. Then you want to switch to the other direction and check for 120 VAC .
Yes, once you have the selection made and the start button pressed, you should see 120 VAC on your meter display.
When you resistance test a circuit with a meter, you can get a "false " reading. Though a little dangerous a voltage test is a bit more positive. and indicative of possible problems. If you’re not getting the correct voltage at the motor connector harness, but you have the correct voltage at the control board, then the problem is in the wire harness between the two components.[/quote]
No voltage for any of the manual motor test. This includes #9 (low spin), #10 (high spin), #11 (gentle agitation), and #12 (heavy agitation). When I push the start button for either of these test I immediately get all status LED’s blinking and an audible beep. Upon release of the start button the LED’s return to normal, indicating the corresponding selected test.
The following manual test ran normal: #0 (lid lock), #1 (cold value), #2 (hot value), #5 (fabric softener), #7 (drain). Test numbers #3, #4, and #6 were not applicable to my washer.
Since all motor related test failed I am confident that the main board is defective, probably one or both of the motor triacs located behind the big heat sink on the board.
Last evening after having posted my manual test results (see post #38) I started thinking about the lid lock switch. I believe that the lid lock must be engaged to complete the motor circuit. I did not to this for any of the motor test. Although manual test #0 (lid lock) does function normally I failed to lock the lid closed before continuing on to test #9-12. I will retest and post my results later, hopefully today.
[QUOTE=burchis;872007]Last evening after having posted my manual test results (see post #38) I started thinking about the lid lock switch. I believe that the lid lock must be engaged to complete the motor circuit. I did not to this for any of the motor test. Although manual test #0 (lid lock) does function normally I failed to lock the lid closed before continuing on to test #9-12. I will retest and post my results later, hopefully today.[/QUOTE]
Burchis, Yes the lid has to be locked in the test mode to operate the motor. So you’ll need to re run the tests with the lid locked.
Also remember, the sensor in the actuator has to send the correct resistance readings to the control board, in order for the lid to lock, and complete the circuit for the motor run operation.