I’ve had the Amana ARGS7650E gas range for 13 years, and once had to replace the control module during warranty period. In the past few months the oven will turn itself off completely while baking, particularly at higher temps or when on for a longer time. The clock will reset, as if I pulled the plug. No F codes or anything – just temporary loss of power, and then I can reset by pressing bake again. Is this a sign of another bad control module or a bad temperature sensor? The oven has not been keeping an accurate temp lately, when it does work. If it’s a bad temperature sensor, can I (a repair novice) replace this myself? How?
There are 2 versions of that particular range.
One has a cooling fan and thermostat to turn the fan on.
The other has a fan and thermostat to turn on the fan, and it also has a hi limit thermostat(on the back of the oven cavity).
I think you have a weak hi limit themostat,or the cooling fan is not comming on.
The temp sensor could be failing/weak,but that doesn’t shut the unit down.
Could you get us the “P” number, off the serial plate, so we can be more accurate in assisting you.
Appreciate it.
Thanks for your reply! My oven has a cooling fan that seems to run properly when the oven is very hot and on for a long period… and it will continue to run even after the oven is off, but still hot. It may also have the high limit sensor you mentioned in the back of the oven cavity… I’m not sure about that. The “P” number is : P1130755N E and the Model is ARGS7650E, and it’s gas.
Thanks!
Ray Theon
[quote=Ray Theon;256121]Thanks for your reply! My oven has a cooling fan that seems to run properly when the oven is very hot and on for a long period… and it will continue to run even after the oven is off, but still hot. It may also have the high limit sensor you mentioned in the back of the oven cavity… I’m not sure about that. The “P” number is : P1130755N E and the Model is ARGS7650E, and it’s gas.
Thanks!
Ray Theon[/quote]
Ray,
Thanks for the “p” number,
It made things a lot easier.
You actually have all 3 components, cooling fan, fan limit switch and a High limit switch.
(see attached)
The information you just gave me, tells me everything is working as designed, except the hi limit switch.
On your unit it is located on the top, left side of the oven cavity(under the cooktop).
It’s still easier to access the thermostat from the back, instead of through the top of the unit.
(you may need a “stubby” screwdriver or nut driver).
Once you replace the limit switch, you’ll be fine.
Good luck,
I have exactly the same problem with my Amana ACS3350AS. When the oven heats up the control panel just goes blank and the oven turns off. When the oven cools down again it resets the control panel and it works again, but this means I can only have my oven on for 5-10 minutes.
I see that the control panel for this model is discontinued, so I was hoping there was another way to fix this problem.
Thanks,
James
[quote=mr_ton;290722]I have exactly the same problem with my Amana ACS3350AS. When the oven heats up the control panel just goes blank and the oven turns off. When the oven cools down again it resets the control panel and it works again, but this means I can only have my oven on for 5-10 minutes.
I see that the control panel for this model is discontinued, so I was hoping there was another way to fix this problem.
Thanks,
James[/quote]
James,
Have you done the checks that we reccomended on the previous posts ?
You have two limit switches under the cooktop, and a cooling fan, just like before (Ray).
You need to check and see which limit switch is open when the display goes blank. (or replace both).
You also need to make sure the cooling fan motor runs.
Good Luck,
OK, so I took the stove top off and turned the oven on full. I left it on for about an hour but it didn’t turn itself off as normal. I could not hear a cooling fan and have not heard anything since, so I assume this is certainly broken. I checked the voltage across the 2 switches: the one that was further forward was 110V, the back one was 0V.
Do I just need to fix the fan or do the switches control the fan (do you know where I can find a wiring diagram)? I am guessing that because the top was off, the switches didn’t get hot enough to trip. When I put the stove top back on it did turn itself off again as before (although it seemed to take longer that before).
Thanks,
James
[quote=mr_ton;299298]OK, so I took the stove top off and turned the oven on full. I left it on for about an hour but it didn’t turn itself off as normal. I could not hear a cooling fan and have not heard anything since, so I assume this is certainly broken. I checked the voltage across the 2 switches: the one that was further forward was 110V, the back one was 0V.
Do I just need to fix the fan or do the switches control the fan (do you know where I can find a wiring diagram)? I am guessing that because the top was off, the switches didn’t get hot enough to trip. When I put the stove top back on it did turn itself off again as before (although it seemed to take longer that before).
Thanks,
James[/quote]
James,
The fan limit switch controls the power to the cooling fan.
The control limit switch,(oven limit), of course is power to the control.
They are both temperature sensitive,
The fan limit closes and sends voltage to the cooling fan, when the temperature reaches a certain temp.in the burner box area, to cool the controls.
The control limit opens when it is too hot and turns off power to the control board and things go blank and inoperative.
You could test the cooling fan by jumping out the fan limit and see if the fan runs at the proper speed.
Or attach 120 VAC directly to motor and check it’s operation.
I used to replace both limits at the same time, as long as the fan checked OK.
I’m sending the tech sheet for your unit, and you should be able to handle it from there.
Good Luck,
args tech sheet.pdf (302.3 KB)
I have a similar problem with the Amana ACS3350AS. After being on for an hour or more the display sometimes quits and then the oven shuts down. I don’t think there is any cooling fan for this model - is there some other reason it is getting too hot?
J,
There is a cooling fan / blower on your unit,
It is located on the back of the range( you’ll need to pull the range out and remove the back panel to access it.
I would not start there, I’ve replaced more limit switches, than fans, over the years.
As the previous posts stated, both limits are located under the cooktop, on the left side of the burner box.
I always replaced both, if one is weak, so is the other.
But, the fan limit switch is a open circuit when the control area/cooktop temperature is below 155 dgrs. at 155 dgrs the limit switch closes and turns on the fan.
The oven/control limit is a closed circuit until the area temperature reaches 240 dgrs. the the limit opens and the control shuts down.
Basically everything mentioned it the previous posts, applies to your unit, follow the same process and procedures, and you’ll be up and running, trouble free.
I included the part numbers for your unit.
Good Luck.
[QUOTE=Joe / APP Team;257657]Ray,
Thanks for the “p” number,
It made things a lot easier.
You actually have all 3 components, cooling fan, fan limit switch and a High limit switch.
(see attached)
The information you just gave me, tells me everything is working as designed, except the hi limit switch.
On your unit it is located on the top, left side of the oven cavity(under the cooktop).
It’s still easier to access the thermostat from the back, instead of through the top of the unit.
(you may need a “stubby” screwdriver or nut driver).
Once you replace the limit switch, you’ll be fine.
Good luck,
:)[/QUOTE]
i FINALLY replaced the high limit sensor, as you suggested! It was sitting in a box for a year after I ordered it! (My wife finally said fix it, or I’m buying a new $4000 stove). Well, after I installed the high limit sensor neither the oven or broiler will light or do anything! The regular burners work fine, and there is gas flowing to the unit. Before the “repair” it took about 5 minutes for the oven to light. It would just sit there thinking about whether it wanted to light for 5 minutes. Now, it won’t light at all. What is my next repair Sir, to fix this problem?
Ray,
Disconnect the wire harness from the bake and/or broil igniter. Program a cycle. and check for 120 VAC in the connector from the cabinet wire harness for the igniter. If you have the voltge, you’ll need to check for 3.2 to 3.6 VAC at the burner valve, across the wires that come from the igniter to the valve. Low or no voltage at the gas valve terminals, would indicate a weak or broken igniter, and the switch will not open to release the gas and ignite.
The part mentioned in the forum, AP4280271 or manufacturer number Y0308607, is no longer offered by most retailers. What would you recommend as a way to fix the stove if that part is broken? Can the transformer of motor be replaced as a subcomponent?
David,
I guess the cooling fan is not running ? causing the range or control to shut down. Your best bet would be to keep searching the inter net, you have the manufacturer part number, Trying to rebuild a fan motor is probably not cost effective, or possible, unless you have access to a motor rebuild operation.
Good Luck and Thanks,
[QUOTE=Joe / APP Team;747833]David,
I guess the cooling fan is not running ? causing the range or control to shut down. Your best bet would be to keep searching the inter net, you have the manufacturer part number, Trying to rebuild a fan motor is probably not cost effective, or possible, unless you have access to a motor rebuild operation.
Good Luck and Thanks,[/QUOTE]
Joe, yes I replaced the two limit switches on the model ARGS7650WW and the fan motor still doesn’t run. The two sub-components are the transformer and the actual motor and it will take a fair amount of time to try and find generic pieces for either. For such a small part, it’s definitely been a beating to try and trouble shoot when the manufacturer ceases to support the stove model.
David, You may not have a fan motor issue. You may not be waiting long enough ? The fan limit switch is an “open” circuit until the area reaches a temp of 155 dgrs, the limit switch closes and allows 120 VAC to the fan motor and the fan runs and cools the control panel and area.
A couple of ways to check, Turn off power to the range, connect the Black and Yellow wires at the switch together, and re set power, the fan should run. Another way is to use a 120 VAC power test cord, attach the ends to the fan motor wires and plug the cord into an outlet, the fan motor should run.
I’ve attached the wiring diagram and tech sheet to this response, so you’ll be able to test and check the components, and track the circuits.
[model]ARGS7650WW[/model]
[ATTACH]4699[/ATTACH]
Thanks Again,
args tech sheet.pdf (302.3 KB)
Joe, thanks for your patience. I did test the blower motor independently with a test cord into a wall outlet and it turned on so that’s good. I put it back into the stove, put the stove panel back on and turned the oven on to 400. I waited to see if the low limit would flip and turn on the fan but it never came on. Additionally, the oven turned off again due to, and I’m guessing, the high limit switch flipping. Since I just replaced the limit switches, I’m not sure what else to do.
David,
With an oven temp of 400 dgrs, the cooling fan probably won’t start or run for quite sometime. You’re sure the thermostats are installed properly and in the correct position( hi limit is mounted closer to the front, the fan switch is closer to the back of the range). and are both rated witin 10 % of the original parts. You could try this, but be careful, Insert a very thin spacer(1/32 or 1/16 in.) under the thermostat mounting tabs, and see if it takes longer to open and shut the range control down.
Good Luck,
Joe, after testing the switches, it looks like there is a problem with the oven exhaust vent going into the compartment where the switches and fan reside so that no matter how hard the blower works, eventually the full oven exhaust wins out and the oven limit flips. I’m trying to figure out how to tweak the vent because the vent is very long but extremely thin(perhaps 1/3 inch) and if the top panel isn’t fitting it correctly, then the oven exhaust is partially diverted into the space between the range top and the oven. Any tips? All screws and the gas range outlets are lining up just fine.
David,
That could be the issue. The end of the vent flue does need to be 1/8 to 1/4 inch up inside the vent cover on the top. You may want to check the oven vent and raise the flue slightly, and use some hi temp foil tape to seal the joints and seams.
Thanks Again