I have a Amana ARGS7650SS P1130766NSS which is about 11 years old - the oven heats upto temp - but will not hold temp and cuts out - with the control panel going blank (completely off) no error number. Once the oven cools the control panel will come back on and flash - if its cool enough then you can re-enter the temperature and hope it gets to temp before switching off.
Do you know if this would be just a high temp switch problem? and if so which part?
Many thanks
[quote=sanjayG;831201]I have a Amana ARGS7650SS P1130766NSS which is about 11 years old - the oven heats upto temp - but will not hold temp and cuts out - with the control panel going blank (completely off) no error number. Once the oven cools the control panel will come back on and flash - if its cool enough then you can re-enter the temperature and hope it gets to temp before switching off.
Do you know if this would be just a high temp switch problem? and if so which part?
Many thanks[/quote]
Sanjay, There are a couple of things to check, first make sure the cooling fan runs
If the motor doesn’t run and cool the cooktop, the hi limit switch will open and turn the power off to the control. Then test or replace the hi limit switch
When it opens, power to the control is eliminated. It’s located on the upper right area of the cavity, on the back of the range, or under the cooktop, in the same area.
Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.
[quote=supramantt;834300]Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.[/quote]
Supramantt, Yes your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches
and
[quote=supramantt;834300]Hi,
I have a similar issue to the original poster, but my p number is different.
P1130765N instead of P1130755n
Can you tell me if my unit has 2 limit switches or just one? For the past 2 years the range will randomly just go out even when the oven is off. As of last week it has stayed off for more then one week.
Thank you.[/quote]
Supramantt, Yes, your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches,
AP4041090
and
AP4041226
You’ll need to conduct the same tests and checks as the previous post,cooling fan, limit switch circuits, etc. If the limit switch circuits and fan motor check OK, then the issue is in the ERC/Clock
AP4041311
[quote=Joe / APP Team;834438]Supramantt, Yes, your ARGS7650SS range has two(2) limit switches,
AP4041090
and
AP4041226
You’ll need to conduct the same tests and checks as the previous post,cooling fan, limit switch circuits, etc. If the limit switch circuits and fan motor check OK, then the issue is in the ERC/Clock
AP4041311[/quote]
OK, i am having a hell of a time. I have now replaced both limit switches and the unit still does not turn on. So let me go over the issues that i have had so far. I purchased my house with this range 2 years ago. After about 6 months the range would randomly turn off. At first we thought it was related to a power outage, but then we saw it happen completely randomly. It would go out for an hour or two. It did also sometimes go out when the unit was in use, so we just had to wait. I also remember that recently the unit took up to 40 minutes to start warming up when the display was working. I would set it to 400 and the noise for the gas lighting would not come on for a long time.
Anyways, i just went to LA for a week and when i came home, the unit was off. It has not turned back on. I assumed it was the limit switch because so many others were having the same problem. It clearly is not. I also want to mention that i do not believe i have ever heard the fan turn on. So the fan probably is broken too. I just don’t remember it. I have disassembled the display and i do not see any leaky capacitors or anything. I am VERY stumped. I have read this thread thoroughly, but i do not see any actual steps recommended, just parts to test. I do not know what i should do to test the LCD unit or the fan. Please let me know what i should do next. I really do not want to have to replace the whole stove, but it clearly is not a very reliable unit. 
Here is what my control unit looks like.
If you notice the corner, it looks like it might have had an issue there where something blew.
[quote=supramantt;835508]OK, i am having a hell of a time. I have now replaced both limit switches and the unit still does not turn on. So let me go over the issues that i have had so far. I purchased my house with this range 2 years ago. After about 6 months the range would randomly turn off. At first we thought it was related to a power outage, but then we saw it happen completely randomly. It would go out for an hour or two. It did also sometimes go out when the unit was in use, so we just had to wait. I also remember that recently the unit took up to 40 minutes to start warming up when the display was working. I would set it to 400 and the noise for the gas lighting would not come on for a long time.
Anyways, i just went to LA for a week and when i came home, the unit was off. It has not turned back on. I assumed it was the limit switch because so many others were having the same problem. It clearly is not. I also want to mention that i do not believe i have ever heard the fan turn on. So the fan probably is broken too. I just don’t remember it. I have disassembled the display and i do not see any leaky capacitors or anything. I am VERY stumped. I have read this thread thoroughly, but i do not see any actual steps recommended, just parts to test. I do not know what i should do to test the LCD unit or the fan. Please let me know what i should do next. I really do not want to have to replace the whole stove, but it clearly is not a very reliable unit. 
Here is what my control unit looks like.
If you notice the corner, it looks like it might have had an issue there where something blew.
[/quote]
Suptamantt, The discoloration on the ERC display is of no concern, it’s pretty much normal, and occurs in the production process, as long as it doesn’t interfere with the display it’s normal.
We’ve included the wiring diagram and tech information sheet, so you can visualize and trace the circuit and voltages from the line cord, through the limit switch and into the control board. To test the fan, you can apply 120 VAC to the motor terminals, with a test cord, if the fan runs, the motor’s OK, and you need to check the wiring or the fan motor limit switch. Don’t think you’ll find any loose connections or wiring, but you’ll need to look for that possibility as well. With the diagram, you should have the issue diagnosed and repaired shortly.
args tech sheet.pdf (302.3 KB)
[quote=Joe / APP Team;835751]Suptamantt, The discoloration on the ERC display is of no concern, it’s pretty much normal, and occurs in the production process, as long as it doesn’t interfere with the display it’s normal.
We’ve included the wiring diagram and tech information sheet, so you can visualize and trace the circuit and voltages from the line cord, through the limit switch and into the control board. To test the fan, you can apply 120 VAC to the motor terminals, with a test cord, if the fan runs, the motor’s OK, and you need to check the wiring or the fan motor limit switch. Don’t think you’ll find any loose connections or wiring, but you’ll need to look for that possibility as well. With the diagram, you should have the issue diagnosed and repaired shortly.[/quote]
A broken fan wont stop the unit from turning on, right? Also, if i have replaced both limit switches, then the only next step is to replace/repair the control board, is that correct? Being that i see the board has been replaced at least once, i have a strong feeling it has gone out again.
Supramantt, Correct, a faulty cooling fan won’t stop the unit from turning on.
It could cause the range to “shut down” in a cooking mode, if the fan doesn’t run and cool the area. If you’ve replaced the limit switches, checked and made sure there are no loose connections or wires and you are plugged into a polarized, grounded, 120 VAC outlet, then the control is the next logical step, we weren’t aware that the control had failed previously, but yes it could be the issue again.
[quote=Joe / APP Team;835800]Supramantt, Correct, a faulty cooling fan won’t stop the unit from turning on.
It could cause the range to “shut down” in a cooking mode, if the fan doesn’t run and cool the area. If you’ve replaced the limit switches, checked and made sure there are no loose connections or wires and you are plugged into a polarized, grounded, 120 VAC outlet, then the control is the next logical step, we weren’t aware that the control had failed previously, but yes it could be the issue again.[/quote]
I have tested the fan, it works flawlessly. I think the reason i thought it did not work was because it is so silent. Anyways, i have tested multiple outlets and still nothing. I have disassembled the control unit and i thought i found a faulty relay, but i just remove the relay and opened it. I dont think there is anything wrong with it. There was gunk leaking from the bottom of the relay and i thought that was strange because relays dont usually have gunk inside. Anyways, everything looked normal when i opened the relay. I am totally baffled. Can you think of anything else that might cause the system to not power up?
Supramantt, At this point, the only thing left is voltage. or that’s where we need to start over at. At the back of the control/erc, check from the J5 pin 4(black/white wire) across to the J4 pin 10(white wire) and you should read 120 VAC with the power cord plugged into the outlet. Then check from J4 pin 8(black wire) across to J4 pin 10 (white wire) If the voltages are present, then the control/erc is faulty. If the voltages aren’t present, you will need to trace the wiring and components back to the power cord terminals until you find the voltage and repair or replace the wire or faulty component. You need to be careful conducting these “live” voltage tests, you could hurt yourself if you touch or ground yourself to the chassis.
Ok, i have shipped off the unit. I tested both sets of pins and they both had 124.4V. So i do not believe there is a problem with the wiring.
Thanks again.
[quote=supramantt;837313]Ok, i have shipped off the unit. I tested both sets of pins and they both had 124.4V. So i do not believe there is a problem with the wiring.
Thanks again.[/quote]
Supramantt, Correct, if both tests had the correct voltage(s) and the display is not illuminated, then yes, the issue is in the ERC/Clock. You should be up and running soon.
Thanks for the assistance. It is a huge bummer these are not more reliable. This unit has already been replaced multiple times. It clearly says remanufactured. Luckily i found a shop that gives a 2 year warranty to repair it and it was 160 with return shipping. One of the best deals i could find. Everyone else was 210 with a 6 month warranty.
Supramantt,
Sounds like you did very well, especially the two year warranty on workmanship. and the price is pretty much in range for an ERC / Clock for that style and brand range.
Is there much difference in the parts i need to fix my stove with the P number being P1130766NE?
Thanks
[QUOTE=onyx;838988]Is there much difference in the parts i need to fix my stove with the P number being P1130766NE?
Thanks[/QUOTE]
Onyx, No, there’s not much of a difference in the parts you may need, in fact they are the same in both ranges. Once you test and determine where or what the issue is you will be able to use the listed parts in the previous post to order any part needed. You can also use the other information attached to the posts for testing resistance circuits and wiring locations,etc.
Joe my unit has the same issues as some in this thread. However my ERC flashed F3 or F4 I don’t rememeber. It would also flash error once in a while. Anyways do you have a pdf of the service manual you could post? I have the tech manual printed out you posted on this thread so I can follow the schematics. Recently the ERC control unit has fallen down behind the keypad. Have you seen this kind of issue? Broken screws maybe? Is the cooktop removed by only removing the burner screws and lifting up and out? Will the ERC be reachable from there once the top is off?
Thanks,
Jason
[QUOTE=pochejp;843436]Joe my unit has the same issues as some in this thread. However my ERC flashed F3 or F4 I don’t rememeber. It would also flash error once in a while. Anyways do you have a pdf of the service manual you could post? I have the tech manual printed out you posted on this thread so I can follow the schematics. Recently the ERC control unit has fallen down behind the keypad. Have you seen this kind of issue? Broken screws maybe? Is the cooktop removed by only removing the burner screws and lifting up and out? Will the ERC be reachable from there once the top is off?
Thanks,
Jason[/QUOTE]
Jason,
The F3 and F4 error codes indicate an issue with the oven temp. sensor
or the wiring between the sensor and the ERC
Under the circumstances it’s probably the ERC. Here is the information you’ll need to remove the cooktop and access the ERC to check it’s mounting tabs and screws.
Maintop Removal–Slide-In
Control Panel Disassembly–Slide-In
ERC–Slide-In
The service manual for your range is a bit too large to post here on the Forum. The attached information has been extracted from the manual and posted to help you out.
[QUOTE=Joe / APP Team;299568]James,
The fan limit switch controls the power to the cooling fan.
The control limit switch,(oven limit), of course is power to the control.
They are both temperature sensitive,
The fan limit closes and sends voltage to the cooling fan, when the temperature reaches a certain temp.in the burner box area, to cool the controls.
The control limit opens when it is too hot and turns off power to the control board and things go blank and inoperative.
You could test the cooling fan by jumping out the fan limit and see if the fan runs at the proper speed.
Or attach 120 VAC directly to motor and check it’s operation.
I used to replace both limits at the same time, as long as the fan checked OK.
I’m sending the tech sheet for your unit, and you should be able to handle it from there.
Good Luck,
:)[/QUOTE]
anyone know where these parts can be found in 2016? i have the same issue and need all 3…
Thanks