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jgmace  
#1 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 5:11:30 AM(UTC)
jgmace

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Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

Is there any way to test the Timer Resistor for this dryer. The timer works normally in regular timer mode but will not advance on the Permanent Press or Auto Cycle. I found the information below on another site and this part is present in my dryer.

Auto or Permanent PressSome dryer models use a SPDT thermostat to control the advancing of the timer in the 'auto' or 'permanent press' cycle as described above. Others (older Whirlpool built models especially but also some newer Frigidaire and GE dryers) have a resister in series with the timer's motor which only allows power to flow to that motor when the heater is cycled off by the control thermostat. On the latter design should this resister fail, it will stop the timer from advancing in the auto dry mode but will still advance normally on regular timed cycles.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, April 20, 2010 1:01:56 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for General Electric DPSR473EW0WW Electric dryer | AppliancePartsPros.com

Measure it with a meter should be around 5,000 ohms.

I cannot find tech info on this unit so the above is approximate.

Also often GE's use two elements in the heater, if one of them is burned out this will stop the timer from advancing in auto mode.
The way it works is that when the heater is shut off by a thermostat the timer motor gets it's power through the heating coil and the resistor drops the heater's 240 volts down to 120 volts for the timer motor.

If you do not have the wiring diagram take a look in the control console, they like to put them in there.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
jgmace  
#3 Posted : Sunday, April 25, 2010 7:27:14 AM(UTC)
jgmace

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Joined: 4/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 3

Thanks for the info. I checked the resistor and it was ok. Took the machine apart and found the inner coil had broken. I have ordered a replacement coil kit, belt and a light bulb we didn't even know we had. I plan to reuse the heat shield with the new coils.

Once again, thanks for the advise.
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