normal wash cycle quit functioning. was told it was control board. put a n ew one in and it functioned the same way. we had been washing dishes with the quick wash cycle and had been getting by but when i first put new control board in the first time we wash it ran the same as with the old board but now even quick wash is not functioning. please advise what my next step should be. i priced the control panel and it may be cost prohibitive? 175.00 Thanks, Eric

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL GU1200XTLQ0 Undercounter Dishwasher | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Tech%20Sheet%20-%208533399.pdf

As Qtip said, it could be a door latch switch.
Could be that the thermal fuse has blown (Item 6 in Section 2)
Check that the unit is getting power re: wirenuts etc.are OK.

On the original problem, check the keypad with a meter, see the tech sheet.
Normally the way you trouble shoot this type of problem is to check the keypad and if it is OK then you replace the control board. Still a bit of a crap shoot but your odds are better.

You may want to try the following
Connector Cleaning / Checking
Unplug the unit
Open it up
Remove the ribbon cable from the keypad to the control board at the control board.
Clean the edge connector.
If it is the type where there is not a connector just the insulation is removed, it can be cleaned with a pencil eraser. Do not use an ink eraser as it is too abrasive.
Check the tracks in the ribbon cable for hairline cracks. A magnifying glass helps here.
Would not hurt to clean the connector on the board. Use electronics contact cleaner or isopropyl alcohol and a tooth brush. Be gentle and do not reconnect till all the solvent evaporates.
Reconnect everything and give it a try.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.