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Joined: 12/30/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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A while back my dryer wouldn't start and I was advised to clean machine and diagnose thermal fuse. Fuse was defective and I replaced it. Thoroughly cleaned machine and it started up. Thought that did it, but, noticed irregularities. Clothes were unusually hot when finished and difficult to handle. While clothes were drying and cycling through the unfinished timer, I opened the door to check them. The heating element wouldn't shut off. This went on for 3-4 loads, then the thermal fuse blew again. Removed Thermal cut-off, high limit thermostat, cycling thermostat, and, of course the fuse. Had all but the cycling thermostat tested and the thermal cut-off, high limit thermostat were good. Forgot to take cycling thermostat for testing, but replaced it and the fuse by process of elimination. When opening the door now while machine is still in a cycle the heating element now shuts off. Hoping this does the trick and the fuse won't blow now. Any comments or further suggestions. Can do nothing now but see if this work fixed it.
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Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC) Posts: 19,638
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Here is the wiring diagram http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/Wiring%20Sheet%20-%203401724.pdfYou will see a centrifugal switch on the motor. This switch should disconnect the heater when the motor is at rest. It ensures that there is no heating without air flow. Your unit had heat with the motor stopped so there is a problem. It could be that the switch is staying activated or it's contacts are welded together. A more likely cause of this is a grounded element. The element either sags or breaks and touches the case. It then heats from one side of the line (120 volts) to Neutral instead of across both lines (240 volts) Depending how it grounds it can do a lot of weird things. The way to check it is unplug the unit, unplug both sides of the heater and measure it with a meter. Should be 10 ohms approximately. Then measure from each side to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open) If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long. If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool. Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it. A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity 1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter. 2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path. 3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range. There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use. |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/30/2009(UTC) Posts: 4
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Thanks denman, something else I didn't think of that I can certainly check. But, after I replaced the suspect cycling thermostat and the dead fuse the heat no longer stayed on after the motor stopped. The clothes, too, don't seem to be overly hot to touch anymore. Still waiting to see if the fuse stays intact. Need to do more laundry today to see. Had a digital meter that I accidently left at a site where I was installing an electrical system for a friend. Have never replaced it yet hoping I can still retrieve it. Hadn't known of the test values you've described about the suspect sagging element though. With the size of the holes in the dryer drum, metallic items can wind up anywhere in the machine. I've found them and instructed users to empty their pockets or pay for parts. Thanks for schematic. You guys are a reliable source and I can't think of better help I've gotten. I'll keep you posted regarding the dryer. Also want to replace the motor in next few weeks due to a bad rear bearing. Can't find a better price than APP yet.
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