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I am trying to locate an obsolete part: 20-09-115 (or could be 20-09-116). This is the front right burner for the GCV36G cooktop.
The wife thought it was un-repairable and tossed in the garbage - so I can't repair it :( Kind of urgent as needed in order to close on the sale of our house. Any help would greatly be appreciated!!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
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Was thanked: 4 time(s) in 4 post(s)
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Paul,
I double checked for this part and it is no longer available.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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I have that model. I need 3 out of 4 burner knob assemblies (the switches, not the knobs). Or I might get rid of it. If you still have yours, maybe one of us can salvage the cooktop.
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Rank: Member
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The switch for the right rear burner on my Thermador GCV36G stove top won't turn anymore. The part is listed as number 16. Anyone still have one of those?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/21/2008(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: ChrisLadd  The switch for the right rear burner on my Thermador GCV36G stove top won't turn anymore. The part is listed as number 16. Anyone still have one of those? I had this problem on 3 of 4 of my burners, and it turned out that on all 3, it was corrosion on the valve cylinder. I was able to break the corrosion on 2 of the 3 and restore them without replacing any parts. The one unsuccessful attempt was my first where I tried to break the corrosion with the dial. Don't do this. I only managed to break the metal locking tab, which rendered that dial completely useless. Here's what to do:
- First, turn off the gas to your stove. (It is very easy to pull out the valve cylinder and permit gas to flow at high volume into your kitchen.)
- Remove the dials and raise the stove top to expose the valves.
- Remove the screws holding on the black starter switch (I'm telling you this from memory -- so there may be one or two steps I'm forgetting -- but they should be obvious.) For example, you may have to remove the electrical leads to the starter switch.
- Remove the spring that covers the solid valve cylinder.
- With a pair of pliers, carefully grip the top of the cylinder, and with some bit of force, turn the cylinder back and forth until it turns easily. I did not apply WD40 or graphite lubricant as I wasn't certain this was advisable, and simply breaking the corrosion was sufficient.
- Reassemble the valve. I found that a flathead screwdriver was helpful in holding down the spring while replacing the starter switch.
- Test that the dial now can turn and that the starter also sparks.
- Turn on the gas and be certain none is leaking.
Hope this works for you. Let me know.
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Rank: Member
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Unbelievable. It was only one burner. It was gas, so I wasn't going to mess with it if I couldn't just buy a new valve. But for you it was three valves. And necessity is the mother of invention. Thanks ten times over.
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