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ChadJ  
#1 Posted : Monday, December 21, 2009 11:22:08 AM(UTC)
ChadJ

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Joined: 12/21/2009(UTC)
Posts: 1

We had our oven on last night and flames, sparks, and a buzzing sound came from inside the oven at the bottom left (oven element?). Now both the oven element and broiler elements don't work. All burners on the stove top work fine and the clock works fine.

Do I need to replace both elements or could there be another issue?

Thanks!
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denman  
#2 Posted : Tuesday, December 22, 2009 4:34:36 AM(UTC)
denman

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Here are your parts
Replacement parts for MAYTAG MER5555QAW Range - S/c F/s Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual and tech sheet
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16025644.pdf
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16025645.pdf

By the sound of it the bake element is gone, it may have also taken out the control board or the thermal limiter.

Do I need to replace both elements or could there be another issue?
Unplug the unit
Remove the bake element and check it with a meter, should be about 18 ohms.
I would also check the broil element, should be around 15 ohms.
Remove and check the thermal limiter, should be 0 ohms.
Check that all wires from the control board to the elements are OK.

The oven element will probably be shot, replace it if it is.
If the wires are good and the themal limiter is good but the unit still does not work, then odds are that when it sparked it blew the control board.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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