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Motor drive replacement parts for MAYTAG MDE3000AYW Dryer - Ele | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is a manual
http://www.servicematters.com/m...ibrary/docs/16023110.pdf

Sounds like the original problem was the motor overheating.
It has an internal thermal protect which opens if the motor overheats, you then have to wait for the motor to cool down before it will reset.

I assuming that the unit does not make any noise when you try to start it.

For the current problem first try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times.
Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Better yet measure it at the plug with a meter
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.

Next try rotating the drum by hand, it should turn fairly easily. This will let you know if the drum is putting too much of a load on the motor and causing it to overheat. If it is hard to turn then you will also have to find out what is causing this and repair it once you get the current problem fixed.

Unplug the unit.
Check the wires at the unit's terminal block to ensure one of them has not burned off.
You will see that there are 2 thermal fuses inline with the motor.
Check Item 10 in Section 6 with a meter should be 0 ohms.
Then check Item 11 in Section 5 also should be 0 ohms.
Odds are high that one of these is blown.
Other possible causes are the door switch, the push to start switch and the motor.

The jiggery pokery method of checking the fuses is:
Unplug the unit
Remove the wires from the fuse and short them together.
Tape them up so they cannot short to anything.
Plug the unit in and give it a try.
If it runs replace the fuse ASAP as they are critical safety devices.

If a fuse is blow be sure to check/clean your vent system.

If it is now running you have to find what was causing the original problem.

Give the unit's interior and motor a good cleaning.
Clean and check the blower wheel. Sometimes the blower wheel can strip so it turns but is slipping on the motor shaft.
Check the following for wear and bearing slop: rear rollers, front glides, idler wheel, motor bearings.
Here is a good link
http://www.applianceaid.com/dryers.html
Check out 10 then 26 then at the bottom of the page Check this out

Also a good idea to check the belt and the drum etc. seals.

Often this problem requires that the motor be replaced.

Basically you are giving the unit an overhaul.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.