Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
pavel  
#1 Posted : Saturday, February 23, 2008 8:07:38 AM(UTC)
pavel

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/23/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Hello, I have a problem with my oven. The rangetop works fine , but the oven does not light. The broiler does not work, or the oven. I replaced the Igniter, and it is getting 120 V from the thermostat when the thermostat is turned on. It also has continuity up to the safety valve. The problem is that the safety valve doesn't have continuity through it, even with 120 volts going into it. NO VOLTAGE COMING THROUGH THE SAFETY VALVE, i dont know why. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on this problem.

JGBC15GER2WH
GE
5-10 YEARS

GLOWBAR IGNITION
THERMOSTAT GIVING OFF ELECTRICITY.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
pavel  
#2 Posted : Thursday, February 28, 2008 10:42:52 AM(UTC)
pavel

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/23/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

bump, any answers?
Gene  
#3 Posted : Friday, February 29, 2008 11:02:46 AM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Hi Pavel,

If there is no continuity through the gas safety valve - the gas safety valve is bad and has to be replaced.

- The part number for the gas safety valve is AP2022752

Gene.
pavel  
#4 Posted : Friday, February 29, 2008 4:32:47 PM(UTC)
pavel

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/23/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

When I said there is no continuity, I assumed there is no continuity because the needle is going infinitely to the left, and bouncing very very rapidly. In other words, they needle is going in the negative direction infinitely. does this change anything?
Gene  
#5 Posted : Friday, February 29, 2008 8:28:02 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

If the reading across the two safety valve terminals (with at least one wire removed) is "∞" (or close to it) then the circuit is open and the safety valve has to be replaced.

Gene.
pavel  
#6 Posted : Saturday, March 1, 2008 5:54:20 AM(UTC)
pavel

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/23/2008(UTC)
Posts: 4

Thank you for all your help thus far. As for the last question, how sure are you that it IS the safety valve. Because I have already replaced the coil igniter which had cost 60 dollars and spending another 100 dollars for another possible problem seems iffy to me.

Is there any other way to make sure that it is the problem? When i tested the safety valve I had both wires disconnected and tested the direct line across the two connections on the safety valve.

also, where is the cheapest place I can get this part? is there such a thing as used home appliance parts flying around on the internet?
Gene  
#7 Posted : Sunday, March 2, 2008 1:10:54 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

If you are sure there is no continuity across the safety valve terminals then I'm sure the safety valve is bad.

Gene.
Users browsing this topic
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.