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Hello, I have a problem with my oven. The rangetop works fine , but the oven does not light. The broiler does not work, or the oven. I replaced the Igniter, and it is getting 120 V from the thermostat when the thermostat is turned on. It also has continuity up to the safety valve. The problem is that the safety valve doesn't have continuity through it, even with 120 volts going into it. NO VOLTAGE COMING THROUGH THE SAFETY VALVE, i dont know why. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas on this problem.
JGBC15GER2WH
GE
5-10 YEARS
GLOWBAR IGNITION
THERMOSTAT GIVING OFF ELECTRICITY.
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Rank: Member
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Hi Pavel, If there is no continuity through the gas safety valve - the gas safety valve is bad and has to be replaced. - The part number for the gas safety valve is AP2022752 Gene.
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When I said there is no continuity, I assumed there is no continuity because the needle is going infinitely to the left, and bouncing very very rapidly. In other words, they needle is going in the negative direction infinitely. does this change anything?
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If the reading across the two safety valve terminals (with at least one wire removed) is "∞" (or close to it) then the circuit is open and the safety valve has to be replaced.
Gene.
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Rank: Member
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Thank you for all your help thus far. As for the last question, how sure are you that it IS the safety valve. Because I have already replaced the coil igniter which had cost 60 dollars and spending another 100 dollars for another possible problem seems iffy to me.
Is there any other way to make sure that it is the problem? When i tested the safety valve I had both wires disconnected and tested the direct line across the two connections on the safety valve.
also, where is the cheapest place I can get this part? is there such a thing as used home appliance parts flying around on the internet?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455
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If you are sure there is no continuity across the safety valve terminals then I'm sure the safety valve is bad.
Gene.
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