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Model: JED8430ADB	Brand: Jenn-Air	Age: 5 - 10 years
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RollingSpinner		#1 Posted : Monday, February 5, 2018 11:48:21 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 6/26/2016(UTC) Posts: 2		I have a Jenn-Air Model JED8430ADB drop in cook top with bad dual element switch. Old switch is [COLOR="Yellow"]209050/7403P406-60[/COLOR]. I have replacement switch [COLOR="Red"]12002125[/COLOR]. I am having trouble getting the correct wiring plan done as the switches are not labeled the same. I have also attached the wiring scheme from the cooktop paperwork, as well as the instructions that were included in the new switch. I have identified wires with daisy chains, and with piggy backs. The connections I have are a little different in that the crimp pin simply holds an uncut section of the wire, with the insulation cord on each side. I will call those "double" wires until the experts tell me what name they should be called. [COLOR="Yellow"]Old Switch[/COLOR] [COLOR="Yellow"]Terminal 1[/COLOR] single (orange) wire to knob control. [COLOR="Yellow"]Terminal 2[/COLOR] double (black). Half goes to RWB power, other end goes to the piggy backed L1 on sister switch. [COLOR="Yellow"]Terminal 3[/COLOR] single white corded wire to dual heating element [COLOR="Yellow"]Terminal 4[/COLOR] (single red) corded wire to dual heating element limiter. [COLOR="Yellow"]Terminal 5[/COLOR] (double red) half goes to RWB power, other side goes to sister switch. [COLOR="Yellow"]Terminal 6[/COLOR] (single yellow) wire to heating element left side of terminal, Based on other posts, this is how I have completed the wiring. Besides the fact that the new switch doesn't neither the large nor the small coils on this (new) element warm up. The on indicator does glow amber. The on indicator under the switch does glow amber. All other elements are functioning. [COLOR="Red"]This is my new wiring scheme[/COLOR]. Jumper from [COLOR="Red"]P1[/COLOR] to [COLOR="Red"]S1[/COLOR] Old Terminal [COLOR="Yellow"]1[/COLOR] single now to [COLOR="Red"]S2[/COLOR] Old Terminal [COLOR="Yellow"]2[/COLOR] (dual black) now to [COLOR="Red"]P1[/COLOR], next to jumper Old Terminal [COLOR="Yellow"]3[/COLOR] now to [COLOR="Red"]4[/COLOR] Old Terminal [COLOR="Yellow"]5[/COLOR] (double red) to [COLOR="Red"]P2 [/COLOR] Old Terminal [COLOR="Yellow"]6[/COLOR] now to [COLOR="Red"]4a[/COLOR] We turn on the breaker and the dual element will not warm up. Help, help, help oh yee Appliance Repair Gods! :confused: File Attachment(s): Wiring scheme for 8104P688-60.pdf (1,913kb) downloaded 63 time(s). Wiring instructions for new switch..pdf (1,867kb) downloaded 71 time(s).


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RollingSpinner		#2 Posted : Tuesday, February 6, 2018 3:15:38 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member Groups: Registered Joined: 6/26/2016(UTC) Posts: 2		I have a working cook top again. My wiring from the old switch to the new switch was successful because of a post on this website. What took us about a week to figure out, was that the wiring to the limiter on our new dual element would also be different. I found a youtube video that mentions that you need to turn your new element, and old element over and note the terminal positions. The video states "when installing a new element, it is important to connect the wires, to the same labeled terminals, regardless of the physical location of the terminal". Lo' and behold, there were two terminals that, although were in the same physical location of the old element, were labeled differently. So we had to switch two wires and TADA! I thought the biggest problem we were going to have with the repairs on this cook top, were going to be the fact that the past homeowner used tile grout to secure the cook top to the tile counter. Trying to pry the glass top off the counter without breaking the glass had me.... well, it wasn't pretty.


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