Hey everyone,

I have a Whirlpool oven thats been burning everything we try to bake lately. After doing a bit of online research and speaking to Whirlpool's parts distributor I've come to the conclusion that the oven thermostat is the most likely culprit. The parts distributor said that the original part (Robert Shaw Part#RAC12-133-48) has been discontinued and replaced with BSI Part#6700S0011.

Since the parts aren't the same some of the labels are different so I'm not exactly sure which wires go where on the new part. L1 and L2 are easy but the others are a bit confusing.

Thanks in advance :)

Thanks for the info ThatGuy!

I'm a bit confused though.. I can only hook up 1 wire for the pilot light on the new control.. it doesn't have multiple prongs like some of the others. Also, shouldn't anything connect to COM? It allows for up to 3 different wires so I find it odd not to get any.

The new control box did come with a basic sheet. I forgot to include a picture of the wiring schematic in my original post.

Here you go:

I have the same problem. I followed these steps and the oven will not heat (bake or broil). The pilot light doesn't light either.

6700series> I have the same problem. I followed these steps and the oven will not heat (bake or broil). The pilot light doesn't light either.

Same here. Then I checked the 30 amp fuses with a multimeter. It turned out one of them was bad even though it was not obvious, did not look "blown" on visual inspection. I replaced that one and now the oven heats. I'm using the "old" thermostat, the one I thought was broken.

To do a resistance or continuity test with a multimeter:

• Disconnect the power to the range, it's not needed for this test.
  
• Power to the multimeter is required for this test so turn the multimeter on.
  
• Select the Ohms or Resistance setting, sometimes the Greek letter Omega.
  
• Touch the leads together. It should show zero (0) resistance. If it doesn't check the battery in the multimeter.
  
• Put one lead (doesn't matter which one) on the metal at the bottom of the fuse and the other on the metal (the screw threads) on the side. The resistance should be zero (0). Try it first on a fuse you know is good.
  
• If it's not zero or very near 0 get a new fuse, resistance-test it, and replace the bad one with it.
  

Another thing I tried before I discovered the bad fuse was a continuity test on the Safety Thermostat which is between the L2 lug on the main thermostat and the right (if you are behind the oven facing forward) 30 amp fuse. (The L1 lug connects to the other 30 amp fuse.) (The wires from L2 to this fuse may be the same colour and and a different colour from others, but don't rely on that entirely.) There should be continuity, that is, resistance should be zero or near zero. If there isn't, the Safety Thermostat may be broken. The Safety Thermostat is near a dime-sized metal "button" in the oven at the upper right, near the capillary tube of the Main Thermostat; it is not in the "head" of the range with all the other controls and so may be difficult to get at. The part number of the Safety Thermostat is 9751448.

If the oven is controlled, say with a timer, from the control panel circuit board, something on the circuit board may be the problem. In my case I don't think the oven is controlled by anything on that board.

A web site with diagrams and part names and numbers for many models of ranges is at youserguide dot com. Search for, for example, WCE34401, the Whirlpool model number.