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marshall361  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, July 6, 2016 6:08:14 AM(UTC)
marshall361

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I have an older Whirlpool electric dryer Model LER7646DQ1. It quit working one day and after inspection a connection (Large Red Wire) on what looks like a thermostat (has two purple wires and a red and red/white wire) had come loose and got burnt. I replaced with new connection. It will now not start. I ohmed out door switch, start swith, and all fuses and thermostats that I know of. I have 220v to back but can’t seem to read 115v anywhere. I made a cord and ran from push start switch and timer wire (white) and verified motor does run. Now it’s finding out why I’m not getting voltage to it. Is there some kind of grounding problem or timer issue. I just hate to replace timer of a whim since they are so pricey and can’t be returned. Any help appreciated or what to check next.
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brobriffin  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, July 6, 2016 6:47:32 AM(UTC)
brobriffin

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If the door switch and the exhaust thermal fuse Whirlpool WP3392519 Dryer Thermal Fuse - AppliancePartsPros.com
are both showing continuity, as either not working this will prevent startup. I would suggest checking the wiring harness for any further damage. The large red wire I imagine as you explained was on the exhaust side and that is your cycling thermostat. The thermal fuse which has two wires and is adjacent to it on the exhaust. Make sure those wires are not burnt out and show continuity both to and from the control panel. Otherwise there may be burnt contacts in the timer.....
marshall361  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, July 6, 2016 7:16:32 AM(UTC)
marshall361

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thermal fuse reads good. Metered out good from motor side of thermal fuse to push/start switch then to timer once start switch pushed. All thermostats ohm out good. It was burn on top side(red wire) from thermostat 3387139 (4 prong) to another thermostat 3390291 (2 prong). All meters out good. I just wasn't sure why I wasn't reading 115v anywhere. Is there a way to bypass switch to test out. I see there is an internal switch in timer between white and tan? Is there a way to check if its working. Thanks
brobriffin  
#4 Posted : Wednesday, July 6, 2016 11:48:39 AM(UTC)
brobriffin

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I suspect the points (contacts) in the timer may be burnt then.
marshall361  
#5 Posted : Wednesday, July 6, 2016 1:15:26 PM(UTC)
marshall361

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I metered out contacts on timer. All seem good but one has BU BL &V all on one. Blue and black seemed good but not violet. Thought I could jumper violet to blue but that didn't work. Will look at more shortly. What's stopping the 115v from showing? Timer and nothing will click and no 115v showing anywhere. Timer worked fine when I hooked external 115v to it. Thanks
brobriffin  
#6 Posted : Wednesday, July 6, 2016 2:30:40 PM(UTC)
brobriffin

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Your Black line going to BL on the timer is L1 115v lead. It should be hot always. If you can't read 115 at that point trace it back to the terminal block to see why!
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