What's going on with the motor and center pulley during agitation? If you tilt the machine back and rotate the center pulley CCW by hand, this should cause the agitator to go back and forth. If you can rotate it and the transmission input shaft is rotating but no agitation, then the transmission is faulty.

Eric

Just to be clear, it is the transmission input shaft that is rotating, not the entire transmission? When rotating the pulley CW the entire transmission should rotate which is what makes the basket rotate for spin cycle.

Have you taken the dust cover off the bottom of the pulley? This will give you a view of the stop lug (photo below). The stop lug is splined to the transmission input shaft and is what drives that shaft in agitation mode. The cam on the pulley drives the lug. This is really the only way to see the transmission input shaft without the pulley removed. It's possible that the splines on the stop lug are stripped.

If you find that the input shaft is indeed being rotated, I would then remove the agitator to inspect the splines inside the agitator and on the transmission output shaft. If you still come to the conclusion that the transmission input shaft is being driven but the output shaft is not, then you can open up the transmission and yes, it can be repaired.

The way it works is that the input pinion drives the bevel gear which drives a yoke that moves the output shaft back and forth. See photo below (input shaft on left, output on right). The transmission is full of oil so open it with the cover facing upwards.

Here is your parts manual with transmission exploded view.
http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20LAT8435AAE.pdf

Eric

The entire transmission should not rotate at all when rotating the pulley in the CCW direction. Your brake is failing. The brake rotor is splined to the transmission's outer shaft and should prevent movement of the transmission except when in spin cycle. The lower end of the transmission inner input shaft is not splined to the pulley. The input shaft is helical like a screw and when the pulley rotates in the CW direction it "rides" up this helical shaft. This pushes the bearing on the upper side of the pulley against the brake rotor to release the brake. At the same time, there is downward force on the transmission input shaft which engages a clutch inside the transmission. The clutch consists of two disc washers below the input pinion gear. One washer is splined to the shaft, the other is not. The downward force on these washers squeezes them together so that now the input shaft is "locked" to the transmission housing and that combined with the release of the brake allows the whole transmission to rotate. The inner basket is secured to the upper outer transmission shaft. Your going to need to replace the brake package. This requires a special spanner wrench. See this video for instructions on replacing the brake.

http://www.appliancepartspros.c...6-2011900-ap4373089.html
http://www.appliancepartspros.c...-tj038315-ap5632784.html

Eric

fairbank56,

I have installed the new brake assembly on my Maytag model lat8435aae washer that you diagnosed as the reason my washer would not agitate. I wish to inform you that the new brake assembly corrected the non-agitating problem.

However, now the washer will not spin.

I installed the new brake assembly using the spanner tool i purchased from AP per your suggestion, making sure that it was tight to the mating part and locked the brake in place using the sheet metal thread lock clamp.

Started a wash cycle with the water fill, wash (agitate), but when the washer went into the spin part of the cycle, the belt spun on the stopped pulley and did not spin the tub. The transmission appeared to be locked up. At this point. I shut off the washer as there was a smell of burnt rubber.

What can I do to correct this problem?

Thanks,
Stan

Eric, as you suspected in your last post. something was installed incorrectly.

It turned out that in my haste to install the new Brake Package that i ordered from APP I failed to remove the radial bearing from the top of the old Brake and install it in the new Brake before installing it in the Washing machine. I had forgotten that I had seen the video on installing a new bearing you had linked to in an earlier post.

I had to kind of start over on the repair so i studied the repair manual that the APP tech support sent me as a download and the installation of the radial bearing in the Brake was featured in a photo. This jibed my memory of the video so I went back and watched the video again. I guess it would have helped if there had been an instruction sheet furnished with the new brake.

The repair manual also mentions that the bearing, the Brake spline and the helix on the pulley and input shaft should receive a coating of grease. I did apply the grease as recommended and this did make the assembly easier.

I made sure that the Brake was assembled tightly to the damper and that the thread locking device was properly installed. I then installed the stop lug per the instructions in the manual.

After installing the belts, i manually rotated the pulley in both directions and could observe that the washer was working properly.

Since the repair was completed my wife has done about 10 loads (5 days) of wash. The washer performs like when it was new (we purchased washer in 1995).

Thanks for all your help and expertise. You made momma happy and we all know what happens when momma isn't happy!

The new brake, assembly tool and shipping cost about $100.00. I figure I saved a minimum of $400.00 (versus replacing with new) by dealing with AppliancePartsPros for my repair diagnosis, advice and assistance.

Since my washing machine issue is now resolved and i am very happy with the results achieved with my experience with APP I will say thanks again and will recommend you guys to all who will listen.

Stan