Kenmore Coldspot (Whirlpool) refrigerator model 106.9552882.

((((((((((((((((((((((((((((
EDIT 3: It's all working now!
I had to fix the wiring to the defrost heater.
(see below for the broken road that led me there ;>)
))))))))))))))))))))))))))))


((((((((((((((((((((((((((((
EDIT 1: I should have stated that the original issue was that the freezer stopped defrosting, ice blocked the air flow, and the food compartment stopped getting cool air.

I manually defrosted and everything started cooling properly again and maintained a proper temp in both freezer and food compartment.
So, all is working except the automatic defrost system.

I initially ruled out the defrost thermostat because a couple of times I manually advanced the timer and the heater came on and defrosted. But later the heater did not come on, so I wasn't sure where the problem was (see following for further details).
))))))))))))))))))))))))))))

((((((((((((((((((((((((((((
EDIT 2: So, my original actual question was:
With the replacement defrost timer part = 482493 (AP3110896)
and my Model Fridge which has a defrost wiring harness:
pin 2 pink
pin 1 black
pin 4 orange
pin 3 red
where do I connect the loose black wire, p1 or p2?

Thanks to DAB147 who gave me the definitive answer:
pin 2
!!
(see below for more details)
))))))))))))))))))))))))))))


I bought a replacement defrost timer
new part = 482493 (AP3110896)
although the piece, itself, says
483212
. The part that I'm replacing is a 10-hr timer
part = 2162046
. The web page shows that 482493 should work to replace 2162046,
so all looks good so far.

However, I'm trying to figure out which wiring procedure to use.
The instructions say
"10-hr timer must be replaced w 8-hr, see Procedure 3"

However, my wiring harness has the following wires:
pin 2 pink
pin 1 black
pin 4 orange
pin 3 red
and the old part has labeling that matches that.

But, these colors match Procedure 2 in the instructions.

Which procedure do I use?

bv

Bad news.
The new timer is not advancing in the fridge.

So, thinking that maybe Procedure *2* really is correct for me (connecting to pin 1 instead of 2
(( that should have been:
"connecting to pin 2 instead of 1
))
*and* matching the wire colors that my harness has), I thought that maybe the old timer is actually GOOD and I should have applied power to it across pins 2&3.

Sure enough!
Applying power to pins 2&3 on the bench w my special power cable caused the OLD timer to start advancing. It transitioned correctly into defrost and then out again.

So, now I think that I may have a wiring issue or harness issue, although there are no scorch marks anywhere.

More testing needed.
I'll follow up.

bv

Well, it didn't finish defrosting.
I don't know how long it stayed on.
It has stopped clicking and I can't tell whether it has advanced out of defrost or not.
I think so.

I manually moved it far into normal mode.
It is not clicking or advancing.
I'm going to leave it for a few hours to let it cool down again and to see if anything changes.

I just don't know how the damn thing is supposed to work.
I would have assumed that it would continuously advance and that since it is not, that there must be some other wiring issue.

Maybe someone can tell me.

bv

tks.
I'll try it.

bv

So,
I connected blk wire to pin2.
Manually advanced timer to just before DEFROST mode and inserted it into the wiring harness.

The weird (at least to me) thing is that, when I remove the timer from the harness, I see 120 V across pins 1 & 3 (blk & red) (EDIT:of the harness), as I would expect.
Then, while the timer is in COMPRESSOR mode, as soon as I insert the timer back into harness (but only partially, leaving its pins exposed so I can put a meter on them), the compressor goes on, *but* I do not see 120V across *any* pins and the timer motor is not running (so not advancing).
I see continuity across 1&4, as it should be for COMPRESSOR mode.

So then I manually advanced timer into DEFROST mode.
The compressor and fans shut off, the timer motor begins to run, and I have 120V across 3&1 and across 3&2 (expected since 2&1 have continuity in DEFROST mode).

I'm going to let it run and see if it goes thru the entire 30 mins.

EDIT: the heater is not hot, so I may have a bad thermostat, as well,

bv