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Your welcome.Leave it on 2 and you should be ok.
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OK
It ran the full DEFROST mode 30 mins and exited to COMPRESSOR mode.
Compressor and fans are on and it's cooling again.
But, again there is no power across any pins to the timer and it is not running.
So, what is causing the fridge not to send power to the timer and how is it ever going to get back to DEFROST mode??
Anyway, I'm going to replace the defrost thermostat next, but I don't see how it has anything to do with the power to the timer.
But it's only another $20 or so.
bv
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During non-Defrost, the Defrost Timer will run IF:
Cold Control is "closed" and Defrost Bi-Metal is "closed"
(Compressor is running, and Evaporator is cold)
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It will take time for the defrost thermostat to close after defrost as the defrost thermostat is rated at 18 degrees f.So the timer motor will not be turning.Let it run over night.
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Well the Cold Control *is* closed, because compressor & fan are on, evaporator is cold, its fan is running, & cold air is getting to the food comp.
The temps of both comps are maintaining properly.
BUT, you are saying that the bi-metal *does* affect whether the timer runs or not.
However, I don't know about whether the bi-metal is closing properly or not.
The freezer is reading between -4 at bottom and 16 F near top, so it *should* be closed if not defective. I will check it out.
bv
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Rank: Member
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Yes bi-metal affects whether timer runs.If the bi-metal does not close during cooling cycle and your temperature are what you say they are it should be closed.I guess when you said in the beginning of your post that it was not defrosting.Did you have frost on the evaporator from top to bottom ? Makes me think bad bi-metal.
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yes, all of the evaporator covered w frost totally full top-to bottom and at bottom plugged the air holes so that the food comp warmed up -- that's how I first noticed it: the wine wasn't as chilly as normal ;>)
bv
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Rank: Member
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Originally Posted by: bobvance  yes, all of the evaporator covered w frost totally full top-to bottom and at bottom plugged the air holes so that the food comp warmed up -- that's how I first noticed it: the wine wasn't as chilly as normal ;>)
bv Wine wasn,t chilly.Can,t have that.3 things cause heavy frost ,timer , heater and defrost thermostat.I would change that defrost thermostat.
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I snipped the thermostat out and it looks like it is open at all temps, so I am ordering a new one. Of course, the thermo was my initial thought, but during messing around I got the heater to actually come on twice, so thought it must be the timer.
Hopefully, new thermo will fix it and the new timer was unnecessary. But, I certainly learned a lot more about timers than I intended, so the money and time was well spent.
I will update when I get new thermostat.
bv
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Rank: Member
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So, I tossed the thermostat into the freezer overnight and tested it again this morning.
Now, it's CLOSED at cold, so not sure what I saw yesterday, although I did shake it around a bit while I fooling with it last night.
Anyway, so I decided to FORCE the thermo circuit closed -- I just used a wire nut and shorted the ends where I had cut the thermo loose yesterday.
NO GO :[ -- timer (still in COMPRESSOR mode) not moving - motor not running (in the new timer it has a clear housing and you can actually see the motor.
So, I manually advanced timer to DEFROST mode.
Heater not heating up :[
BUT!
As I was looking at the wiring harness in the freezer, moving wires around I heard the telltale hiss of a short and it looked like it was coming from one of the heater element connectors. So, I wiggled the connector around and the heater came on !!
So, right now I'm just letting it finish the defrosting -- the timer runs about 30 mins.
When done, I'll OPEN up the thermo circuit and see what happens,
Will report back.
bv
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