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I spoke to a technician at Newark element14, who said its possible the armature in the relay is failing and is not completely closing thus resulting in an open circuit.
So, after looking around (very hard to find this relay), I bit the bullet. I found the exact relay at Mouser Electronics. Shipped to my father in FL $12.12. My son will bring it home when he goes to visit him in 2-3 weeks. I am hoping this will fix the problem. If not, it's not a big deal at only $12.
I will report back in about 3-4 weeks once I receive and install the new relay.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16
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Well, bit the bullet and ordered a relay. Arrived at my father's in FL. My son is visiting in a couple of weeks and will bring back. Will report back if the relay does the trick.
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Rank: Member
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Success!!!!
Replaced the relay on the control board last night and my top element is now working again!!! Wooo-hooo! I do need a new solder sucker though...getting the solder off probably took half the time!
So $12 and a bit of patience vs $950 for a new control board....definitely worth it!
Thanks for all the help!
For those who might have the same issue:
Got my replacement relay at Mouser Electronics
Part # G8P-1C4TP-V DC24
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Rank: Advanced Member
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You are welcome.
And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be the cause. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Well, all was good in paradise, but now I have a new problem related to same element.
Same bottom element on the upper oven is not heating. But here's the weird thing. With everything hooked up, and probing with my meter with the back panel off, I am getting 120V on input side of the element, and 120V on the output side of the element, which means current is passing through.
When I first tested resistance (see first post) the ohms reading started out at about 120 and started to quickly drop, but as it approached 39, it began dropping slowly. Took the better part of 2-3 minutes to drop to and level out to 28.2 Ohms.
Is it possible the element is toast? Should my next step to to test the resistance again?
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Rank: Advanced Member
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[COLOR="Blue"]I am getting 120V on input side of the element, and 120V on the output side of the element, which means current is passing through.[/COLOR]
No it does not mean that there is current passing through the element.
It depends on where the reference probe of the meter is.
It is the voltage across the element that is important.
When one side of the meter is at Neutral or ground then 120 on each side of the element can be confusing.
1: It could be that the element is blown/open an you are measuring L1 on one side and L2 on the other side.
2: It could be that the element is OK but you are measuring either L1 or L2 on both sides of the element.
[COLOR="Blue"]When I first tested resistance (see first post) the ohms reading started out at about 120 and started to quickly drop, but as it approached 39, it began dropping slowly. Took the better part of 2-3 minutes to drop to and level out to 28.2 Ohms.[/COLOR]
I am not sure what happened here.
[COLOR="Blue"]Is it possible the element is toast?[/COLOR]
I doubt it
[COLOR="Blue"]Should my next step to to test the resistance again?[/COLOR]
Would not hurt.
Disconnect one side of the element to ensure you isolate it from other parallel resistances. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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