Customer Support 7 days a week

Welcome Guest! You can not login or register.

Notification

Icon
Error

2 Pages12>
Options
Go to last post Go to first unread
luck11  
#1 Posted : Sunday, January 11, 2015 7:45:26 AM(UTC)
luck11

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16

Hi. I have a Maytag double oven and the bake element (bottom) of the top smaller oven is non functioning. It is full digital oven control with ceran top.

I pulled it out with and tested with a digital meter. Strangely, it the oms reading started out at about 120 and started to quickly drop, but as it approached 39, it began dropping slowly. Took the better part of 2-3 minutes to drop to and level out to 28.2 Ohms. This seems odd to me.

I attached the meter to the element leads and turned it on Bake and the digital screen on the oven, which shows a small picture with which elements are on, indicate that both top and bottom elements are on. Yet, my voltage read is 0 (have my meter set to top level (500).

Does this suggest my control board is toast (pun intended), or is there something else I could test? Is there anyway to check connections on the control board?

Any help would be much appreciated.
Sponsor
See inside of your appliance - diagrams and part photos for virtually every model.

powered by AppliancePartsPros.com
 
denman  
#2 Posted : Sunday, January 11, 2015 10:43:03 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
I cannot find info on a BRB unit, is it possibly a BAB .

Following is a manual which may be helpful.
You will have to join the site and be logged in to be abe to download it.
http://appliancejunk.com...wnloads;sa=view;down=390

Sounds like you have checked everything.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
luck11  
#3 Posted : Sunday, January 11, 2015 1:46:25 PM(UTC)
luck11

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16

Thanks, and actually, you are correct. I made an error in the model but the last 3 characters are BCB, not BRB.

Would it make sense to take off the back and follow the wires from the element to make sure there is not a bad connection somewhere, or would I be wasting my time?

I guess I am a bit desperate to find an alternate solution because the control board for this unit is $950 (here in Canada), which is complete highway robbery. Priced right by manufacturers for consumers to make the obvious choice...buy a new unit rather than fix. But that is a discussion for another thread on another day.

If it is the control board, I will either wait for a used unit to go on sale in local classifieds to use for parts, or toss this thing and buy new. For now, my wife said she can live without the bake element on the top oven if need be.

Thanks for any assistance/guidance.
denman  
#4 Posted : Monday, January 12, 2015 12:39:36 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
[COLOR="Blue"]Would it make sense to take off the back and follow the wires from the element to make sure there is not a bad connection somewhere, or would I be wasting my time?[/COLOR]
I would definitely do this.
You can never tell you may get lucky.
Just be sure to unplug the unit when you do this.

Could even be that they have added another thermal cutout in the bake element circuit and not documented it or might even be that they wired it into the bake element instead of the broil element.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
luck11  
#5 Posted : Saturday, January 17, 2015 12:56:36 PM(UTC)
luck11

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16

Ok, so I took off the back cover of the range and tested the current directly from what I think is a relay on the back of the control board to the wire that goes into the other prong of the bake element. Same result...no reading.

I found what I believe are two relays connected to the bake element. Once is located on the back of the control board. The wire from the left prong (when facing back of range) goes directly to this relay. The other relay is mounted to the frame of the range and and the other prong of bake element AND one of the wires coming from the broiler element are spliced together into the same connector attached to this 2nd relay.

Here's the thing, and don't know if this is normal. But when I turn on BAKE, I hear two clicks in quick succession from the relay on the back of the control board and only one from the other relay). It almost sounds like the relay on the back of the control board closes the circuit, then for some reason, a second later, it opens the circuit again. However, I had my meter hooked up to the prong on the relay and I never see a reading on it when I turn on BAKE. So, this in itself may prove that the circuit is not actually closing, even for a split second. Else, I presume I would see a short blip of power on my meter.

BTW, I did test my meter on the broil element to make sure it works and got good reading, so I know my meter is not at fault.

Any thoughts on what i might do next? Or are my only options now to live with it, or buy a control board?

Thanks.
denman  
#6 Posted : Tuesday, January 20, 2015 2:23:51 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
Sorry for not replying sooner but I was at the lake for a couple days.

The relay on the board controls the L1 side of the line.
This is the actual temperature control relay.

The relay on the frame is the DLB relay (double line break). This is a safety type relay that disconnects both the bake and broil elements from L2 when the oven is not in use, It seems to work OK.

You could try the diagnostics on page 5-2 in the manual to see if the bake element will come on when you do this.
Note I am not sutre that any element will come on as it does not say if the DLB relay is closed.

You are trying to find out it it is just a problem with the bake relay or if it is a problem with the electronic control of the relay.

If it is just a relay then replacing it would

fix the problem
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
luck11  
#7 Posted : Tuesday, January 20, 2015 5:21:19 AM(UTC)
luck11

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16

No worries! Thanks for responding.

I am willing to give that a try, but I guess the bigger question is that even if this tests leads to the conclusion that the specific relay on the board is at fault, can that relay alone be purchased and replaced, or am I still looking at a new control board module regardless?

If the latter, then I will likely simply look to buying a new range or wait for a used one to sell in local classifieds and strip out the control module.

Another question, if i did find a used range but in white (mine is black), can the control module be replaced separate from the plastic cover that has all the button symbols, or is that affixed to the control module with some sort of adhesive? (ie. could I easily pull the black cover off mine without damaging it and adhere to the replacement module)?

Thanks again.
denman  
#8 Posted : Tuesday, January 20, 2015 6:59:08 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
[COLOR="Blue"]can that relay alone be purchased and replaced, or am I still looking at a new control board module regardless?[/COLOR]
Yes it can be replaced.
You do need a soldering iron, solder and solder wick or a so;der sucker.
Also some electronics experience helps.
There should be numbers on it and you can often use those numbers to find a replacement from Digikey etc.

[COLOR="Blue"]
the control module be replaced separate from the plastic cover that has all the button symbols, or is that affixed to the control module with some sort of adhesive? (ie. could I easily pull the black cover off mine without damaging it and adhere to the replacement module)?[/COLOR]
This I do not know and cannot tell by looking at the pictures of the part.
If it is peel and stick getting the old one off without any damage would be unlikely.
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!!
luck11  
#9 Posted : Tuesday, January 20, 2015 1:59:31 PM(UTC)
luck11

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16

Thanks. I did chat with a rep and they checked....supposedly it is peel and stick, so if I find a replacement, it would have to be black I guess.

I will check if I can see any numbers. If I can order just a relay, that would be great. I have a good soldering iron and solder sucker, so replacing would not be a problem.

I will post back when I have had a chance to test the relay as suggested in your previous post.
luck11  
#10 Posted : Monday, January 26, 2015 5:11:11 AM(UTC)
luck11

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 1/1/2012(UTC)
Posts: 16

Well, I tried the troubleshooting on 5.2. Unplugged, plugged back in, then pressed Cancel and Broil for 3 seconds until all lines on display.

Then clicked Bake, and no heat from either Bake or Broil element. However, it seems that the test mode exits regardless after 16 seconds or so.

While there, I also pressed Cook Time to display fault codes and got F0-0 which I understand means no fault codes.

So, could I assume that it is the relay, or even at this stage, or is there still a possibility it is the control board?

Thx.
Users browsing this topic
2 Pages12>
Forum Jump  
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.