The left two burners on my Samsung induction range quit working and display the "no pan present" error. When I dissasembled the range I found a burnt trace on the front PC board, Pcb induc PART NUMBER: RAS-ICTOP-04. The burnt trace was under the rear fuse holder on the left side of the board. Picture attached. No fuse is present in either fuse holder and it appears that the fuses have been replaced with a fusible trace under the fuse holders. Anyway, that is the trace that was burned through on the board. I replaced the board with a new one, and when the range was powered up, I heard a loud pop and tripped the range circuit breaker. After disassembly again, the same PC board trace is burnt through. The right two burners and oven still work. Do you have any idea what my problem is? Is one of the inverter boards shorted (no damage evident on either board) or is one of the "burner" elements failed. I hate to just keep throwing parts at the problem. Thanks

This single board ( I think) controls the two inverter boards, each of which power two burners. If you look further down the picture below the pencil position, you will see another fuse holder and an intact fusible trace in the board under the fuse location. I'm assuming that is supplying current/control signals to the still working 2 right side burners. As far as your suggestion to put a fuse in the holder, I did do that while awaiting delivery of the replacement board and was rewarded with another loud pop and tripping of the breaker when the burner was powered on. Stupidly, I went ahead and installed the replacement board in hopes that the "short" was onboard the board I replaced but it failed the same as the original board. It seems that the "short" must be on the downstream inverter board or possibly in one of the burner assemblies itself? I think it is possible that the two failed boards could possibly still be good with a proper fuse in place. Any idea what size fuse? The 10 amp I used vaporized completely in the first attempt, and it was too big I think based on the loud pop and resulting soot residue.

Follow-up to my original post. After burning up the fusible trace on the second primary PC board, I replaced the left side Inverter board which drives the left two burners. I put a 2 amp fuse in the fuse holder over the burnt trace in the primary board and everything worked at half power, but failed when I turned the power to the burner up. I had burnt the 2 amp fuse, so replaced it with a 10 amp fuse. All seems to be working now.

No, a fuse is not all that was required in my case. the fusible trace in the board failed because it was a direct short in the inverter board downstream from the controller board. I was able to reuse the controller board by putting a fuse in the fuse holders (turned out that I needed a 15 amp), but the inverter board on the left side needed to be replaced to keep from blowing the fuse again. about $150 from Sears.

My cook top had same problem, it was fixed as the instruction of the first poster. The fuse size is 15 amp. thanks a lot to the first poster