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Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11066752500 - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

[COLOR="Blue"]I tried switching from timed dry to manual setting,[/COLOR]
Not sure I understand the above as I thought manual was timed dry.
I do not have an operators manual for this unit so I do not know what changes between these settings.

[COLOR="Blue"]but still no heat nor shut off. Thermostat? Timer[/COLOR]
I think the first thing to check is the power.
On this unit the heater and the timer motor work off of 240 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!! [/COLOR]

[COLOR="Blue"]I notice a while back that no matter what temp I set the dryer on, it always seemed to run on cotton/hot.[/COLOR]
This may or may not be related to your current problem and will still need repairing.
Not sure what "cotton/hot" means.
Can only get heat on a cotton setting?
Always runs hot like the cotton setting no matter what setting it is on?

If it is the latter then check the heating coil.
Could be it is grounded in such a way that the operating thermostat cannot regulate it.
Unplug the unit and both heater wires.
Measure across the heater, they are usually in the 8 to 12 ohm range.
Now measure from each heater connector to it's case, both should be infinite ohms.
If not the element is grounded and the heater should be replaced.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.