Dryer will not heat, checked all thermostats and heating element. The timer advances and shut off at the end of cycle. The drum turns and blow out cold air on all settings. I checked with meter The black lead(hot wire) to the timer this is what I got, red wire 10-12 ohms, little black wire on timer 0 ohms, black wire 0 ohms, brown wire on timer 0 ohms, dark blue wire to start switch 1-2 ohms , light blue 1-2 ohms, purple 9-10 ohms, orange wire 10-12 ohms, white wire 10-12 ohms, brown on timer 12 ohms. Now from the black lead (hot) wire to the start button, black doesn't move infinity?, dark blue, light blue and white all are 1-2 ohms From the black lead (hot) wire to the thermal cutoff both are 10-12 ohms, to the heating element 10-12 ohms. to the cut off fuse 1-2 ohms. to the thermostat on the blower the 2 big are 10-12 ohms, 1 of the little ones is 10-12 ohms the other little one is 1-2 ohms. Sorry this is so long but thought it might save some time to tell you what I already know. Is this a timer or wiring problem since all the thermostats and heating elements are showing good? If not what else could it be? Thanks in advance.

10-12 ohms

The meter is showing somewhere between 10 and 12 ohms.

denman, in your earlier post I quoted you and posted the results. I tried to put the results in a different color to make it easier for you to read. It wouldn't let me so I put a space in between. I put one lead from the meter on L1 and the other where you told me to. I know its kind of hard to see,but if you'll look at the post I quoted you in, I posted the results. Sorry for the confusion, and thank you very much for trying to help me.

OK I'm back

[COLOR="Blue"]The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12[/COLOR]
I screwed up when I said the above. It should be 8 to 12 ohms.

[COLOR="Blue"]both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (outer two connectors) cycling thermostat (big red wires)[/COLOR] [COLOR="Green"]10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
OK the 10 to 12 ohms is bad.
So measure black to red at the timer but with the red wire disconnected. This should be 0 ohms as you as measuring across a set of closed contacts in the timer and have isolated it from the rest of the circuitry.
If you still get 10 to 12 ohms then the contacts are bad and the timer needs replacing.

[COLOR="Green"](inner two are it's internal heater) purple wires( little) 1 of them 6-8 ohms the other is 0 ohms.[/COLOR]
These also seems weird.
Contacts BK to V should be open (infinite ohms) when in high heat.
I hope I do a decent job explaining this.
So using the wiring diagram.
When your reference meter lead is on L1 then the current/meter circuit path is BK at the timer to BU since BK to V is open but BK to BU is closed in high heat.
Then through the thermal fuse, through the motor windings to the right hand side of the thermostat heater (on the wiring diagram).
This should measure about 1.5 ohms. This is the motor windings.
On the left hand side of the thermostat heater you should see about 5,600 to 8,400 ohms.

[COLOR="Green"]both sides of the hi-limit thermostat 10-12 ohms
one side of the heating coil both sides are 10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
These two is what I would expect as you also saw this at the BK to red measurement.

[COLOR="Blue"]The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12 ohms both sides are [/COLOR]
As I said earlier this is my error as it should be 8 to 12 ohms.

[COLOR="SeaGreen"]both sides are 10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
Here we get weird again.
Using the wiring diagram.
You would expect to see 10-12 ohms on the left hand side of the element since even if it indicates a problem it is what you have seen in the circuit so far.
But the right hand side should be the 10 to 12 ohms plus 7.8 to 11.8 ohms (the heater resistance) because that is now added to the circuit.
Note the 7.8 to 11.8 is the 8 to 12 ohms that I mentioned earlier I just round it off to 8 to 12.

I hope that I have not confused the livin out of you.
After a lot of years this stuff is second nature to me but I am not very good at explaining it.

So in conclusion I would say that the timer needs replacing.
The heater not adding in when you checked it bothers me but I am at a loss as to why this is.

Before ordering a timer I would check the heating coil.
Undo both wires at the heater.
Then measure the heater it should be between 8 and 12 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the frame/case, both should measure infinite ohms.
You are checking to see if the heater is OK and that it has not sagged and is touching the case which is a bad thing.