OK I'm back

[COLOR="Blue"]The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12[/COLOR]
I screwed up when I said the above. It should be 8 to 12 ohms.

[COLOR="Blue"]both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (outer two connectors) cycling thermostat (big red wires)[/COLOR] [COLOR="Green"]10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
OK the 10 to 12 ohms is bad.
So measure black to red at the timer but with the red wire disconnected. This should be 0 ohms as you as measuring across a set of closed contacts in the timer and have isolated it from the rest of the circuitry.
If you still get 10 to 12 ohms then the contacts are bad and the timer needs replacing.

[COLOR="Green"](inner two are it's internal heater) purple wires( little) 1 of them 6-8 ohms the other is 0 ohms.[/COLOR]
These also seems weird.
Contacts BK to V should be open (infinite ohms) when in high heat.
I hope I do a decent job explaining this.
So using the wiring diagram.
When your reference meter lead is on L1 then the current/meter circuit path is BK at the timer to BU since BK to V is open but BK to BU is closed in high heat.
Then through the thermal fuse, through the motor windings to the right hand side of the thermostat heater (on the wiring diagram).
This should measure about 1.5 ohms. This is the motor windings.
On the left hand side of the thermostat heater you should see about 5,600 to 8,400 ohms.

[COLOR="Green"]both sides of the hi-limit thermostat 10-12 ohms
one side of the heating coil both sides are 10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
These two is what I would expect as you also saw this at the BK to red measurement.

[COLOR="Blue"]The other side of the heating coil should be 0 to 12 ohms both sides are [/COLOR]
As I said earlier this is my error as it should be 8 to 12 ohms.

[COLOR="SeaGreen"]both sides are 10-12 ohms[/COLOR]
Here we get weird again.
Using the wiring diagram.
You would expect to see 10-12 ohms on the left hand side of the element since even if it indicates a problem it is what you have seen in the circuit so far.
But the right hand side should be the 10 to 12 ohms plus 7.8 to 11.8 ohms (the heater resistance) because that is now added to the circuit.
Note the 7.8 to 11.8 is the 8 to 12 ohms that I mentioned earlier I just round it off to 8 to 12.

I hope that I have not confused the livin out of you.
After a lot of years this stuff is second nature to me but I am not very good at explaining it.

So in conclusion I would say that the timer needs replacing.
The heater not adding in when you checked it bothers me but I am at a loss as to why this is.

Before ordering a timer I would check the heating coil.
Undo both wires at the heater.
Then measure the heater it should be between 8 and 12 ohms.
Then measure from each heater connector to the frame/case, both should measure infinite ohms.
You are checking to see if the heater is OK and that it has not sagged and is touching the case which is a bad thing.

[COLOR="Blue"]But I have a question, is there anyway to bypass the timer (just for testing) to see if everything else is ok ? [/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]There is a way to by-pass/jump the BK to R contacts on the timer.
You would need stiff copper wire that is at least 12 gauge.
And then short those two connections together.
I do not recommend this because of the high current in the heater circuit.
If the bypass does not make excellent contact it will overheat and then could mess up you connectors on the wires etc. [COLOR="Red"]OK I will try this. If this works does that mean the timer is bad ?
[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Blue"]Does the heating element run on 120? Could I fix a test wire and hook it straight to a 120 outlet to see if it works.[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]No
[COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]The heating element runs off of 240 volts.