Here are your parts
Parts for Maytag MET3800TW2 Washer Dryer Combo - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for a wiring diagram.
It is for a MET3800TW0 but with luck will be a close match to your unit.
First check your power to be sure you have the 220 volts.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
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Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
If the power is OK.
Set the timer to a timed dry, high heat, mid cycle.
Set your meter to the most sensitive resistance scale. Short the meter leads together before starting so you can see it there is a zero offset in the meter.
Unplug the unit.
Attach one meter lead to the L1 prong on the line cord and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
BK (black) on the timer should be 0 ohms.
R (red) timer switch 2 should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the operating thermostat contacts (reds)should be 0 ohms. The violet wires inside connectors are the thermostat's internal heater so you can ignore them.
Both sides of the thermal fuse should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the thermal cutoff should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the hi-limit should be 0 ohms.
One side or the heating element should be 0 ohms.
The other side of the element should be around 8 to 12 ohms.
Also 8 to 12 ohms at 1M on the motor's centrifugal switch.
There you have now checked most of the heater circuit except the centrifugal switch and the wire from it to L2.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
