Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/5/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
This unit is a double oven recessed into the wall. Recent problem is that the cooling fan does not run when I set the top oven. The heating elements seem to active on the upper oven. (The cooling fan for the bottom oven does run when I set the bottom oven to bake. Are these the same fans?) I haven't let the upper oven run long enough without the cooling fan to see if it comes up to the set temperature. Could this be a control panel issue?
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
|
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/5/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Thanks for sending the tech sheet. I have a follow-up question. How should I troubleshoot this question to see if the problem is the upper oven fan motor or the control panel? So far I haven't seen any error codes on the panel.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
[COLOR="Blue"] How should I troubleshoot this question to see if the problem is the upper oven fan motor or the control panel?[/COLOR]
I would check across the relay contacts at the control board (P4-6 to P7-1).
You should see 120 volts.
If no voltage,then the problem is likely the blower re: no continuity.
If there is voltage then start a bake cycle.
The voltage should drop to 0.
If yes and the fan does not run then odds are it is a fan problem.
Check the fan.
If the re is no change in the voltage then it is probably a control board problem.
Be very, very careful when doing the above.
[COLOR="Blue"]
So far I haven't seen any error codes on the panel.[/COLOR]
I do not think they monitor the fan so you probably would not see an error code. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/5/2013(UTC)
Posts: 3
|
Appreciate all of your comments and the plan you laid out makes sense. Not sure if I want to deal with these live circuits, though. Maybe time to call in a professional. If the oven can't be repaired, it's still worth it to pay for an unsuccessful service call considering the cost of a new double oven, including installation. For cheaper appliances, sometimes it is better to just replace it.
Thanks again.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638
Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 11 time(s) in 11 post(s)
|
Yes it is not a good idea to learn about electrical circuits running live tests in cramped locations. Especially when there is 240 volts at the board.
Another possibility is to remove power from the unit.
Measure from P4-6 to Neutral.
I am not sure what it should be but you should have continuity as you are measuring the blower motor winding.
If it is infinite ohms then you know it is the blower.
Not as definitive as a live test but a lot safer.
If the above looks OK to confirm that it is the board.
You could remove power from the unit.
Place a jumper between P7-1 and P4-6.
Just be sure it will not come loose or short to something else.
Reapply power if the fan comes on then you know it is OK and the board is bad.
Probably best to have another person turn the breaker back on, then if something looks or sounds bad you can give a shout and get the power off quickly. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
|
|
|
|
|
Forum Jump
You can post new topics in this forum.
You can reply to topics in this forum.
You can delete your posts in this forum.
You can edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You can vote in polls in this forum.
Important Information:
The AppliancePartsPros.com uses cookies. By continuing to browse this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies.
More Details
Close
