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Parts for Maytag AED4475TQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

That it did heat and then shut off is worrisome as this may be a loose/bad connection. I am going to ignore this and perhaps we can find the problem.

Have you checked the power?
If the timer advances in timed dry with the unit running then you have the 240 volts. If it does not advance check the power. The timer motor and the heating coil run off of 240, the motor requires 120.

Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]

If the power is good.
Unplug the unit and set it to the cycle where you do not get any heat.
Attach one meter lead to L1 and leave it there. This could be the prong on the power cord.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit. So:
Timer BK (black) should be 0 ohms
Timer B (blue) should be 0 ohms
Timer A (red) should be 0 ohms
Both sides of the Thermal Cutoff should be 0 ohms.
Both sides of the Operating Thermostat contacts should be 0 ohms. These are the outer two contacts. The inner two (violet wires) is it's internal heater and are not important here.
Both sides of the Hi Limit Thermostat should be 0 ohms.
One side of the heater should be 0 ohms. The other side should be 8 to 12 ohms.
1M on the motor should be the same as the heater resistance.

If all the above are OK then the problem is most likely the centrifugal switch on the motor or a bad connection from it to L2.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

Your phone number would not help at least not with me.
It is not something that I would try and talk someone through.
There are things that I do that quite frankly I do not even realize I am doing them it is just done through habit and I would not want to miss something and then you get hurt.
If you are uneasy with messing with electrical then do not do it.

Perhaps you have a friend who could check the power for you or you may have to bite the bullet and get a pro in but see below.
Since the timer advances i in all 4 modes I would say that your power is OK as it's motor requires the 240 volts to run so that is OK. Also the drum motor runs so the 120 volts is OK.

A bad/loose wire causing problems is fairly common. You may not even be able to see the problem but a meter will show it.

I still think a meter is your best bet.
It lets you check things without having the unit plugged in so is a safe way to find problems or at least narrow them down.

It is a very useful tool around the house.
For instance you replace batteries in a remote control and it still does not work. You can check the replacement batteries and find out one of them is a dud. Could save you buying a remote.
OR
You get a replacement part like a thermostat. You can check it's contacts before installing it. It is not unheard of to get parts that are bad right out of the box. This could save you many hours going around in circles when it is just a bad replacement part.

Disregard previous message, I found the problem. It was tied to the red wire. I took apart the timer and found the flat copper pin that's is inside was zapped and had melted the end off so when the timer was turned to the heat setting it wasn't connecting to the red terminal so I took some needle nose pliers and bent the tip over so it would make a connection when the timer turned to the heat setting and it works great now.
Thank you for all your assistance and time. I very much appreciate it!!!!!

Wattsup