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Joined: 10/14/2012(UTC) Posts: 10
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Manufature Date 01-10. OK so it just stoped running one day. Yes there is Power going to it, the Breaker is on and I have 220v inside the Unit. The Light comes on inside. Ok so I Ohm'd out the Start Stop Switch and its OK. I have no Heat, and the Motor dose not turn. Whats Up?
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Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire FEQ332ES0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...f/Webster/134064000e.pdfI have no Heat, and the Motor dose not turn. You should not have heat unless the motor is running. There is a centrifugal switch on the motor that activates when the motor gets close to operating speed. One of them switches in power to the heating coil. I would check the thermal limiter (item 36 in the Cabinet/Drum Parts section) next. It should be 0 ohms. If it is blown: 1. Check/clean your vent system. Tis is the most common cause of it blowing. 2. Check/clean the bower. 3. Disconnect the heating coil and check it for resistance. it should be about 12 ohms. Then check from each heater connector to the frame/case. Both should be infinite ohms. Sometimes a heating coil can short to the frame and then part of it overheats and blows the fuse. |
THIS FORUM IS DEAD!!!!!!! |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/14/2012(UTC) Posts: 10
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Originally Posted by: denman ![Go to Quoted Post Go to Quoted Post](/Themes/yafvision/icon_latest_reply.gif) Here are your parts Parts for Frigidaire FEQ332ES0 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comHere is the wiring diagram http://manuals.frigidaire.com/p...f/Webster/134064000e.pdfI have no Heat, and the Motor dose not turn. You should not have heat unless the motor is running. There is a centrifugal switch on the motor that activates when the motor gets close to operating speed. One of them switches in power to the heating coil. I would check the thermal limiter (item 36 in the Cabinet/Drum Parts section) next. It should be 0 ohms. If it is blown: 1. Check/clean your vent system. Tis is the most common cause of it blowing. 2. Check/clean the bower. 3. Disconnect the heating coil and check it for resistance. it should be about 12 ohms. Then check from each heater connector to the frame/case. Both should be infinite ohms. Sometimes a heating coil can short to the frame and then part of it overheats and blows the fuse. You Hit the Nail right on the Head! I got my $7 part today and it back up and running. Forum at its best. Thankyou......
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