Here are your parts
Parts for Estate TEDS840PQ1 Dryer - AppliancePartsPros.comSee the attachment for your wiring diagram
[COLOR="Blue"]Everything says a dryer has two circuits on the breaker, but mine only has one, big double breaker, so I guess that's good.[/COLOR]
Yes it is probably OK. It should disconnect both sides of the line.
Since you mentioned the breaker has this unit ever worked with this electrical set up.
I would try flipping it off/on slowly. Sometimes you can loose half the line without tripping the breaker.
The heating coils are not heating up when running, but they do have current running through them, confirmed with my handy voltage tester. Literally, hand hand is still tingling! So what would it be with current going to the coils but them not heating up?
The coils can have voltage but if they are open no current will flow.
I do not know how much electrical you know so perhaps the foll0owing will help you.
Your hose electrical is actually two 120 volt supplies with a common Neutral but they are 180 degrees out of phase. So when one is at positive 120 volts, the other is at negative 120 volts. You then get 240 volts between the two (l1 to L2).
The heating coils require the full 240 volts as they are not hooked to Neutral.
The shock you received may have been just from 120 volts.
The first thing to do is to make sure the unit is getting 240 volts with a meter. Use a AC voltage scale that is higher than 240.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
Check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Do this with the heater off and on.
[COLOR="Red"]
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!![/COLOR]
If the power is good then you can unplug the unit and use resistance.
This is a much safer way to check things.
The heating coil should be 8 to 12 ohms.
The thermal cutoff, hi-limit thermostat and operating thermostat should all be 0 ohms.
If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
