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#1 Posted : Friday, March 15, 2013 8:14:52 AM(UTC)

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I have a Kenmore model number 110.63912100 electric dryer that runs and no heat. I have replaced the Heating element and ohmed the both thermostat, thermal cut off switch, and cycling thermostat and is good. The power coming in checked good at 248v. Any suggestions on what to check next. I was thinking of checking the power going into the heating element, or getting another dryer.
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#2 Posted : Saturday, March 16, 2013 2:42:43 AM(UTC)

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Here are your parts
Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11063912100 -

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

There is also a hi-limit thermostat that you did not mention.
Also I am assuming that you checked the power at the terminal strip in the unit.

Odds are that it is either the timer or the motor's centrifugal switch.

Best way to check is to unplug the unit.
Set the timer to mid cycle heater timed dry.
Set your meter to a sensitive resistance scale, usually 200 ohms.
Short the meter leads together to see if there is any zero offset.
Attach one meter lead to L1 on the line cord and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
As an example BK on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Timer Switch 2 RED wire should be 0 ohms.
Etc. , etc. for all the thermostat connectors.
Then one side of the heating element should be 0 ohms.
The other side should be 8 to 12 ohms.

If all is OK then there is a problem with the L2 side of the line that goes through the 2M/1M contacts of one of the motors centrifugal switches.

You could check resisitance from the heater to the switch and then from L2 to the switch if they are OK then the switch is not closing when the motor gets close to it's operating speed.
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#3 Posted : Saturday, March 16, 2013 2:49:27 PM(UTC)

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I was afraid of that, either part is a lot for a dryer that is 5-10 years old. But I will t/s just to see what part has failed and try to determine why. Thanks for the tips.
#4 Posted : Saturday, March 16, 2013 10:58:42 PM(UTC)

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fyi, I have a maytag atlantis with no heat but does tumble, checked resistance to thermostats, fuses they were good, it was my temp selector that was bad, its a rotary type and when I turned it several times the heat came on, so its going bad and I must of jolted it enough for it to work
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