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Parts for Kenmore Dryer 11063912100 - AppliancePartsPros.com

See the attachment for the tech sheet.

There is also a hi-limit thermostat that you did not mention.
Also I am assuming that you checked the power at the terminal strip in the unit.

Odds are that it is either the timer or the motor's centrifugal switch.

Best way to check is to unplug the unit.
Set the timer to mid cycle heater timed dry.
Set your meter to a sensitive resistance scale, usually 200 ohms.
Short the meter leads together to see if there is any zero offset.
Attach one meter lead to L1 on the line cord and leave it there.
Now work your way back through the heater circuit.
As an example BK on the timer should be 0 ohms.
Timer Switch 2 RED wire should be 0 ohms.
Etc. , etc. for all the thermostat connectors.
Then one side of the heating element should be 0 ohms.
The other side should be 8 to 12 ohms.

If all is OK then there is a problem with the L2 side of the line that goes through the 2M/1M contacts of one of the motors centrifugal switches.

You could check resisitance from the heater to the switch and then from L2 to the switch if they are OK then the switch is not closing when the motor gets close to it's operating speed.

fyi, I have a maytag atlantis with no heat but does tumble, checked resistance to thermostats, fuses they were good, it was my temp selector that was bad, its a rotary type and when I turned it several times the heat came on, so its going bad and I must of jolted it enough for it to work