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#1 Posted : Thursday, February 7, 2013 8:53:50 AM(UTC)

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Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/7/2013(UTC)
Posts: 1

My Whirlpool DU1100XTPBA dishwasher won't fill at all. If I manually depress the button on the float switch, it starts filling. The float itself doesn't seem to be caught or jammed on anything. The float has a pin which goes down through the floor of the dishwasher and (I think) is supposed to press on a little plastic lever, which in turn presses on the float switch - my understanding is that when the float rises, it releases the pressure on the lever and float switch, stopping the fill.

I can't see anything wrong with the float switch, lever or pin individually - but as a group they aren't working. Is it possible for the float switch to go bad in such a way that it needs more pressure to be triggered?

By the way, I started by replacing the inlet mechanism, and it's possible that in trying to diagnose the problem (before replacing the inlet) I managed to misalign or otherwise mess up the float/lever/switch. Anyone have a good set of photos of how they should look?


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#2 Posted : Friday, February 8, 2013 1:59:29 AM(UTC)

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Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Here are your parts
Parts for Whirlpool DU1100XTPBA Dishwasher -

They are the only drawings available as far as I know.
If you click on a part's name/picture often a new page will open with more views and info about that part.
Is it possible for the float switch to go bad in such a way that it needs more pressure to be triggered?[/COLOR]
Yes it can or the contacts in the switch may go bad.
You can often hear the switch click when it closes.
This does not mean that the switch is 100% OK as the contacts may be bad.
If you can push down on the switch's actuator and it click or the unit starts filling then I would replace the switch as long as you rae sure that the float is nice and free.

The best way to check it would be with a meter.
Remove power from the unit.
Remove one wire from the switch. this prevents you from reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.
Check across the switch. it should be 0 ohms.

[COLOR="Blue"]I managed to misalign or otherwise mess up the float/lever/switch.[/COLOR]
As long as the float rides up and down easily it is OK.
Note that sometimes gunk accumulates in it and it and the tubs riser tube have to be cleaned.

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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