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clydeself  
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 19, 2012 9:28:54 AM(UTC)
clydeself

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Posts: 14

I ordered an overload relay kit. The part received and the part present on the compressor are definitely different and I have no instructions on how to use the "new design" from the manufacturer. However, I can figure out what goes where and how to wire it up. The capacitor actually plugs into the old piece and would have to be wired to the two terminal that connect to the round plugs that attach to the compressor on the new one. In other words I would have to make two new wires to make this connection. One of the power wires (white I think) goes to the black piece and the hot (red) will plug into the white piece AFTER the connector is cut off and new ends added to the power wires. Both the black and white piece plug onto the compressor with no problem. I have not installed the new pieces. (DISCLAIMER: This wiring has not been confirmed by a professional technician)

However, the old one piece unit measured 5 ohms and is not way blown like many of the pictures I have seen. I took it apart and examined it inside. I suspect the old one piece unit may be ok.

My parents are on a fixed income and we are unable to pay for a repair man to come and fix the fridge for them as they are (in regards to our budget) very expensive. Worth every penny, but out of our cost range.

Therefore, here is what I noticed this morning. . .

1. Plug in the unit
2. The compressor fan begins to turn slowly after about 5 seconds
3. A slight and faint hum comes from the compressor with NO vibration
4. After a few seconds a click and the hum stops
5. The compressor never gets hot or tries to hum again unless it is unplugged from the wall and plugged back in.
6. I unplugged the capacitor and the symptoms did not change at all when the unit was plugged in.

I measured the compressor again. The terminals are in a Triangle and looks to be upside down. The top two are side beside each other with the one on the bottom by itself.

1. across the top two pins it is 9 ohms
2. from the bottom to the top right is 5.6 ohms
3. from the bottom to the top left is 3.6 ohms

THREE QUESTIONS:
1. Are the coils in the Compressor OK?
2. What symptoms "could be" present if the capacitor was bad?
2. What symptoms would be present if it was out of Freon?

Thank you for your patience and time. You advice is deeply appreciated!
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Simon / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Wednesday, September 19, 2012 11:51:50 AM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

Hi.

Here is the relay/overload Part number: W10197427
Part number: W10197427


It should be similar to the old one. Capacitor plugs in.

Now to your questions.
Compressor windings seams OK, with bad cap the compressor will run, gets hot and cycle on the overload.
Without the freon the fridge will run non stop.
If you have the multimeter check the capacitor, but it's most likely good.
Check the compressor windings to the "ground".

Simon.
clydeself  
#3 Posted : Wednesday, September 19, 2012 1:38:09 PM(UTC)
clydeself

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Thank you. Makes a lot of sense. I will check.
clydeself  
#4 Posted : Thursday, September 27, 2012 11:46:57 AM(UTC)
clydeself

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The compressor is not shorted to ground. Starter/overload relay?
Simon / APP Team  
#5 Posted : Thursday, September 27, 2012 1:58:08 PM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

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Hi.

Most likely what it is.

Simon.
richappy  
#6 Posted : Friday, September 28, 2012 3:18:50 AM(UTC)
richappy

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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

First off, compressor winding measurements will NOT show they are good, only indicates which windings are start and run, and shows they are not blown open.
The real problem may be a burnt wire someplace which lowers the voltage to the evaporator fan motor and compressor. The old start device is probably ok. I would check both compressor voltage and evaporator voltage to confirm low voltage.
clydeself  
#7 Posted : Friday, September 28, 2012 8:25:09 AM(UTC)
clydeself

Rank: Member

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Joined: 9/7/2012(UTC)
Posts: 14

I know it is not the start/overload. We got a starter/overload/capacitor all in one from a local store you wire onto the compressor and it does the same thing.

When I disconnect and check the start voltage going to the compressor (not on the compressor but from the start source), I get 120v after a few seconds after we plug it in.

I unplugged the unit, reconnected the start wire to the compressor and it disappears and stays at millivolts rather than going to 120v before.

Seems to me to be a bad compressor. Too bad!
Simon / APP Team  
#8 Posted : Friday, September 28, 2012 9:27:13 AM(UTC)
Simon / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: APP Team
Joined: 2/12/2012(UTC)
Posts: 5,556

Hi.
Check the wire harness to the compressor and if it's OK - you should try to replace the control board in the fresh food section Part number: 8201527
Part number: 8201527


Possibly the compressor relay is bad, not holding the start amps.
You can return any parts back even installed ones.

Post the results.

Simon.
richappy  
#9 Posted : Friday, September 28, 2012 12:38:18 PM(UTC)
richappy

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 9,586

Re-check the winding resistance, it's possible you blew out the start winding.
Also, if you had low voltage to the compressor, your windings may be burnt, resistance checks would not detect that, only a monitor of the current would detect burnt windings.
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