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botkes5  
#1 Posted : Friday, September 18, 2009 6:04:19 PM(UTC)
botkes5

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/17/2009(UTC)
Posts: 4

Model Number: KUDI01TJBL01 Brand: Kitchen Aid Age: 5 - 10 years

I first noticed that the front panel normal wash cycle push button would not stay lit. (green) After some numerous times pushing the button it did finally stay lit, the dishwasher would now start. Now it won't start at all. When I push any of the buttons on the panel they blink a few times then go off. ALL except the normal button it stays dark. I have the for (service technician's use only) paperwork from behind the kick panel. And I read the error message about the stuck keys. From what I read My keys are not stuck. I suspect the control panel works. I suspect it has something to do with the push buttons. So any help would greatly appreciated.
richappy
Senior Expert
APP Volunteer
You probably need a new control module AP3775964

I've replaced the control module as suggested and at least my buttons now work and don't flash when pushed. I've tested the overfill, door switch. Both tested good. The dishwaher works in the cancel/drain mode but not the fill mode. So I ordered a fill valve after testing that and that did not work either. The TCO in the wiring Diagram, is that the fuse that is attached to the cotrol module? (AP3178588). Any other help would be of great help.
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denman  
#2 Posted : Saturday, September 19, 2009 12:55:18 AM(UTC)
denman

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 2/29/2008(UTC)
Posts: 19,638

Here are your parts
Replacement parts for KUDI01TJBL01 models | AppliancePartsPros.com


The TCO in the wiring Diagram, is that the fuse that is attached to the control module?
Yes
Item 6 in the "Control panel" section

If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.

There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.
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