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I just bought a home and ran the self clean on the oven to clean a mess the previous owner left behind. It was nearing completion when it just went blank.
After some research I'm guessing it's the thermal fuse. How do I order a fuse if I cannot get the door open (it was locked when it went out and remains locked) to find the model number. I'm also guessing I'll need to get the door open anyway to replace the fuse. I'm stuck and my fiancé is anxious to use our new kitchen, please help.
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Rank: Member
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Ok I was able to get the door open using a bent metal strap. The model number of the oven is rbd305pd86.
What is the most likely culprit for this problem? The oven is acting as though it has no power, it won't do anything at all. I have flipped the breaker several times slowly, that didn't fix anything. I am assuming thermal fuse but I don't know which one I need or if there is more than one in there?
Thanks for any help you can provide.
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Most likely the problem is a bad control panel thermal fuse which plugs into the wire harness connected to the control board. You also may want to check for continuity the oven shut down thermal fuse on the back of the oven (#37 at the diagram). You can test it from the front (behind the control panel) by checking for continuity between the terminals P6-3 (R) or P6-4(OR) and the Red wire at the terminal block. If there is no continuity then the thermal fuse is bad. The best way to avoid such problems in the future is not to use the self clean any more. This is design error for all such ovens. - The control panel thermal fuse Part number: 4451042
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Ok I replaced the thermal fuse behind the control panel. Everything looks and acts normal but the oven will not heat up. Another blown thermal fuse somewhere else? Please help
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Originally Posted by: Gene  ...You also may want to check for continuity the oven shut down thermal fuse on the back of the oven (#37 at the diagram). You can test it from the front (behind the control panel) by checking for continuity between the terminals P6-3 (R) or P6-4(OR) and the Red wire at the terminal block. If there is no continuity then the thermal fuse is bad... Did you check it? Gene.
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Unfortunately your instructions for testing that part were a little over my head so once it was clear the first fuse was blown I was
Hoping that was it. When I jumped that fuse temporarily everything lit up and I assumed the problem was solved.
I just removed the oven to test that part in the back and it too is bad.
I guess that's the next step.
What are these fuses rated at? Seems crazy that it would get so hot that it would blow
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This is very common problem for such ovens. Usually it happens during self cleaning due to a hot air escaped through the door and directed to the back of the oven by the blower. It;s also important to route the control panel fuse away fro the oven vent tube.
The best solution to prevent such problems is not to use the self clean.
The fuse rating is marked on the fuse.
Gene.
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Ok, replaced both of those fuses and things seem to be working well for the top oven. My fiance just called to say that the bottom oven is not working! I'm not sure we've ever tried it before aside from when the home inspector supposedly tested it.
Are there similar thermal fuses for the bottom oven that could have gone bad on that self clean that fried the other 2 fuses?
Thanks, you guys have been a huge help and your parts are saving me a ton of money.
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Are both Bake and Broil not working or only one of them?
Gene.
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Apparently not working and not knowing how to use it are the same thing in my wife's mind.
I just tested it out and everything heats up just fine, she was pushing the wrong buttons or something.
Thanks Gene!
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