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Gene  
#2021 Posted : Thursday, June 22, 2017 2:05:21 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Hello, Erica.

There is no defrost timer in this refrigerator. The defrost cycle, as well as all other main cycles, operated by the main control board. This control board is located in the compressor compartment (#18 on the diagram).

The electronic control board Part number: AP6015557
Part number: AP6015557




This part is on special order. You can find the ETA via the live chat.

Here are the diagrams for Model GF6NFEXRQ00
bookooc  
#2022 Posted : Saturday, July 8, 2017 8:45:05 AM(UTC)
bookooc

Rank: Member

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Joined: 7/7/2017(UTC)
Posts: 13

Model PSS26MSWASS I am posting this again on this thread, hoping to get some help. This fridge is different from most of them out there, so troubleshooting is different.

I have been searching the internet for a way to fix this for weeks. The FF side is at about 45deg, freezer side is fine. I ran the checks for the evaporator fan in the FF side per this link. GE ClimateKeeper Dual Evaporator System Fresh Food Not Cooling

Voltages are fine at J2. Motherboard was replaced early on, when Ice maker stopped working.

I don't hear any fans on the FF side. The only fan i hear is when I turn on the Custom chill feature, which doesn't make it any colder.

I see some ice buildup to the left of the evaporator coil, but the coil looks pretty good. That ice always seems to form there since it was new.

So is the problem the evaporator fan motor? Obviously it isn't running.
Also, where it it? I can find nothing on the internet showing where this is.

I also don't see it on the schematics here or elsewhere.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Gene  
#2023 Posted : Monday, July 10, 2017 3:39:35 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Something is not right here.

According to the model number Model PSS26MSWASS , which you posted it suppose to be classic GE Profile 25.6 Cu. Ft. Stainless Side-by-Side Refrigerator
No evaporators in the FF as well as no custom cool compartment.
bookooc  
#2024 Posted : Monday, July 10, 2017 4:23:28 PM(UTC)
bookooc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2017(UTC)
Posts: 13

Originally Posted by: bookooc Go to Quoted Post
Model PSS26MSWASS I am posting this again on this thread, hoping to get some help. This fridge is different from most of them out there, so troubleshooting is different.

I have been searching the internet for a way to fix this for weeks. The FF side is at about 45deg, freezer side is fine. I ran the checks for the evaporator fan in the FF side per this link. GE ClimateKeeper Dual Evaporator System Fresh Food Not Cooling

Voltages are fine at J2. Motherboard was replaced early on, when Ice maker stopped working.

I don't hear any fans on the FF side. The only fan i hear is when I turn on the Custom chill feature, which doesn't make it any colder.

I see some ice buildup to the left of the evaporator coil, but the coil looks pretty good. That ice always seems to form there since it was new.

So is the problem the evaporator fan motor? Obviously it isn't running.
Also, where it it? I can find nothing on the internet showing where this is.

I also don't see it on the schematics here or elsewhere.

Thanks in advance for any help.


First, thanks very much for the reply Gene!

And yes, you are correct. Somewhere along this journey I cut and pasted the wrong model number when searching for help. It is actually a PSS26PSWASS. So now I see the correct diagram with the evaporator, but I have to buy the whole thing? $245 to get a fan?
Is the fan the problem?
thanks very much for your help Gene

Rick
Gene  
#2025 Posted : Thursday, July 13, 2017 5:59:51 PM(UTC)
Gene

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC)
Posts: 27,455

Hello, Rick.

You can see if the fan is the problem by running the self-diagnosis mode using the LCD screen which will assist you to test functions of the interior fans.
Control diagnostics using the LCD screen do not use error codes to identify problems. Instead, the LCD screen displays a list of components or systems to be checked if a problem is detected.
To enter the self-diagnosis mode, press and hold in the HOME, CRUSHED, and WATER pads. The SELF
DIAGNOSIS screen will appear. Press FACTORY TEST. Selected All Fans - turns on ALL interior fans (fresh food, freezer, beverage center, and QuickFreeze&#8482; fans). Open the FF door and push in the door switch (the interior lights should go off) to see if the fresh food fan is working. Select EXIT to exit the self diagnosis mode.

The fan comes as a part of the evaporator cover assembly and unfortunately, you would need to buy the whole thing.

The evaporator cover assembly Part number: AP3796654
Part number: AP3796654



Good luck.

Gene.
wrf120  
#2026 Posted : Saturday, July 15, 2017 8:10:27 AM(UTC)
wrf120

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/15/2017(UTC)
Posts: 1

I have an Amana refrigerator model#: SQD26VE, mfg#: P1315203WE. Recently it has been slowly getting warmer and warmer in both compartments. The freezer seems to stay in the mid 30's °F and the FF seems to stay around 50°F.

First thing I did was clean dust, etc. from the evap coils.

Then I confirmed operation of the evaporator and condenser fans. Both were working and obstruction free.

Then I confirmed the compressor was operating. While doing this, I did notice a little corrosion on the exterior of one of the copper tubes coming from/going to (not sure which) the compressor, but did not see any moisture or active leaks.

Next, I removed the panel from the back of the freezer compartment. The condenser coil was covered in frost. I immediately believed i had a defrost system issue (and further confirmed my belief that the compressor is functioning).

I believe there are only 3 main components of that system: the timer, the heater, and the thermostat. First, I checked continuity of the heater. It was approximately 30 ohms. I assume this is acceptable.

Then while the thermostat was still frosted, I checked continuity. It was 0.2 ohms which is the same as lead to lead on my meter. I then warmed up the thermostat and rechecked. It was open. I assume this is proper function.

At this point I believed that the timer must be my issue. I then bumped the timer which was sitting just prior to its "off" cycle. Getting close to the timer, I could hear it ticking. I then advanced the timer to the next cycle which turned the compressor back on. Again I could hear the timer ticking. It seems to be moving on its own.

Finally I turned the timer back to the "off" cycle, disconnected the leads for the heater and confirmed 120VAC in the heater circuit.

After the coils were completely defrosted from all of the open door time. I put everything back together and allowed it to run overnight, approximately 8-9 hours. It was about half frosted over by morning.

The only other issue I noticed was that the seal on the refrigerator door has a split near the bottom corner. I believe it is still sealing reasonably well. This split in the seal was present before these issues started.

At this point I am not sure where to go. I would appreciate any help very much.

UPDATE: The All three components of the defrost system seem to be working now. The freezer went through a defrost cycle after 8 hours of run time. After the defrost cycle the temperature was down to about 2°F. The FF compartment is still up above 45°F, but I don't believe that the evaporator fan is running? Is it possible something is causing the fan to run intermittently? I would guess the fan should run all the time, except when its in a defrost cycle.
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bookooc  
#2027 Posted : Saturday, July 15, 2017 3:42:17 PM(UTC)
bookooc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2017(UTC)
Posts: 13

Originally Posted by: Gene Go to Quoted Post
Hello, Rick.

You can see if the fan is the problem by running the self-diagnosis mode using the LCD screen which will assist you to test functions of the interior fans.
Control diagnostics using the LCD screen do not use error codes to identify problems. Instead, the LCD screen displays a list of components or systems to be checked if a problem is detected.
To enter the self-diagnosis mode, press and hold in the HOME, CRUSHED, and WATER pads. The SELF
DIAGNOSIS screen will appear. Press FACTORY TEST. Selected All Fans - turns on ALL interior fans (fresh food, freezer, beverage center, and QuickFreeze&#8482; fans). Open the FF door and push in the door switch (the interior lights should go off) to see if the fresh food fan is working. Select EXIT to exit the self diagnosis mode.

The fan comes as a part of the evaporator cover assembly and unfortunately, you would need to buy the whole thing.

The evaporator cover assembly Part number: AP3796654
Part number: AP3796654



Good luck.

Gene.


Hi Gene,
Thanks for taking the time to respond. I ran the diagnostic, and all the fans came on. I assume the evaporator fan is on, I can't see it of course. I felt vibration when putting my hand on the cover, and felt some air to the left where the insulation meets the left wall. I also noticed the beverage center fan was on, but it isn't on normally either. Today I tried turning off the Beverage center option, then turning it on again, and it comes on for about 15 seconds, I feel the air from the vent on the left FF wall, and then it stops.

I am also seeing water puddling under the custom cool bin, which I assume is from the defrost cycle running. Is this because the fan is not running?

So what can this be? What other steps I can take to isolate this? Thermistor?

Regarding the evaporator cover, it seems to be stuck on the left side. Is it held with double sided tape or something? I am afraid to pull too hard on it, don't want to make the situation worse. If that's possible.

Again I really appreciate the advice. I can't really afford to call a technician out at this time, and I am a computer engineer, so I can fix most things around the house. Just hard to do with this without a service manual.

thanks again

Rick
bookooc  
#2028 Posted : Thursday, July 27, 2017 1:43:18 PM(UTC)
bookooc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2017(UTC)
Posts: 13

I guess no one is monitoring this site anymore, at least not this thread. :(((
Big James  
#2029 Posted : Sunday, August 13, 2017 2:20:14 AM(UTC)
Big James

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/13/2017(UTC)
Posts: 1

In many of the Refrigerators airflow to the refrigerator is through the evaporator located in Freezer. There could be many reasons however two major reasons could be

If there has been some spillage like ice cream etc in the freezers the vent to refrigerator might have been blocked. Second reason could be
If the refrigerator is new there could be a design issue.. the amount of frost that is gathered on the evaporator may not be getting melted by the heater, a. The heater may not be working or the b. timer may not be doing its job. Trust this helps.
bookooc  
#2030 Posted : Tuesday, August 22, 2017 9:45:32 AM(UTC)
bookooc

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 7/7/2017(UTC)
Posts: 13

Thanks for the advice. this is a dual-evaporator Profile unit. So it doesn't apply here.
I wish Gene was still on the board, but looks like he has retired. I still have the issue. I guess I am going to try a thermistor first.
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