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Hi GeneL56, Per the last information you provided, it is possible that the problem is a bad thermostat or a bad adaptive defrost control board. Next time the compressor would not run with insufficient temperatures, try to tap the thermostat knob. If the compressor will start, replace the thermostat. Otherwise replace the ADC board (inside the control box). - The thermostat Part number: 2210491
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 12/24/2010(UTC) Posts: 11
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Hi Gene, If I monkey with the refrigerator thermostat knob, I CAN get the compressor to run. I'm going to replace the thermostat. I'll let you know if it fixes the problem. Thanks again for continued assistance ! GeneL56
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Joined: 10/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 15
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Gene, Here is the full update. I had received the control box and installed it, (as mentioned earlier) and with the control set at at the warmest setting the fridge stayed at or below 30 degrees. I checked everything and it was all as it should be, so I called and told them they must have sent me a bad unit. I now have the second unit installed and am having a similar issue, I am now at the warmest setting and again at 30 degrees. When I had the original part in I could reach in and smack the control box, and the dampner would then close, so I had figured that the original problem was with the dampner. So while I was waiting for the replacement unit to arrive, I installed a new dampner motor and actuator (the cylinder thing that turns) thinking that would solve the issue. It didn't and with the old box/new dampner I still had a sticking open issue. Not sure what to do next. Thanks Brac
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Hi Brac,
This situation is very strange and I'm not sure what to do next. I've posted this on our tech talk board and hopefully someone else will get back with better solution. I'll keep you informed.
Gene.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 9/10/2007(UTC) Posts: 9,586
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For Brac; Seems like a wire problem. I would take each connector apart and spray with a non-resdue contact cleaner and also look for a bad pin on all the connectors.
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I hag thought that the dials were "off" at zero, but this must not be the case. For the last 36 hours I have had good temps in both boxes, however the freezer control is set between 0 and 1, and the fridge control is at "0". Of course as of now I have a control box that cost $208.00 (don't know that this did anything for me?)
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/19/2012(UTC) Posts: 2
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This is a relatively young french door style Amana unit. I read through the replies here, and I couldn't find one that applies to mine. No defrost timer, as this one has an electronic control system. The freezer is just icy, but the fridge is warm. The compressor runs almost continuously. The coils arn't frozen, and ventilation isn't blocked. Cool air is not coming out of the vent at the top of the refrigerator compartment. The meat tray, with its own little vent, still was pretty cool.
This is actually the second time this has happened. The first time, I unplugged the unit, made sure the compressor area was clean, and interior and exterior vents were clear, and so on. After plugging back in, it was fine for three or four weeks. Once again, fridge was warm, freezer was fine. And once again, after being unplugged for a time to clean and check, it seems to be fine again.
I bet this isn't the last time the problem will show. Maybe the flap servo to the fridge compartment is flakey? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
The model is:
AFF2534FEB
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert, Administrators Joined: 7/19/2007(UTC) Posts: 27,455
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Make sure the damper control (#13 at the diagram) gate is open. If it's closed, check the mechanical parts of the gate and the damper motor for continuity. - The damper control Part number: W10196393
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 10/20/2010(UTC) Posts: 15
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I can feel when it is letting air through, however I wanted to be sure so I used a set of test leads and 120 volts to make sure it operated properly.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 5/19/2012(UTC) Posts: 2
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Thanks so much for the response! Seems either I didn't notice this the first time around, or that the problem is different now. I found the fridge was warm again, and I checked the vent servo, and it was open. Looking through the slits at the back of the fridge, there does look to be frost buildup. I'm going to shut it off, and let it defrost. I wonder if it's best at this point just to get a new control board? Or should the heater and sensor be tested? Originally Posted by: Gene Make sure the damper control (#13 at the diagram) gate is open. If it's closed, check the mechanical parts of the gate and the damper motor for continuity. - The damper control Part number: W10196393
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