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Originally Posted by: o2G2o  ...not much frost on the radiator looking thing or anywhere else... Can you describe it more detailed please? Gene.
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My fridge/freezer is having the same problem: fresh food compartment too warm and evaporator coils frosted over. Defrosted the coils with a hair dryer and 3-4 weeks later same problem recurred. Defrosted again but now I suspect some part of the defrost system isn't working and expect to see the same result again if the problem isn't identified and fixed.
I was hoping to get some advice specific to my freezer model. Sorry if this info has been posted - I read the first page of this thread but didn't go through all 100+ pages of posts. I also searched the thread for my model number and didn't find it so I thought I would add a reply on to this thread instead of starting yet another one for the same problem.
I think I understand most of the problem (in general terms) and some of the various things to test, but wanted to be corrected if I am mistaken. Also would like to know what numbers I should be seeing (if known) when I check various components with a multimeter. My fridge make/model number is GE GBS22HBPACC. (Note that this model doesn't have a digital freezer & fresh food temp control - it has numbered dials).
If I understand things correctly, the problem may be in either the heating element itself, the thermodisc, the thermistor, or the the main control board.
Could you help me out by explaining a little more about what the thermodisc and thermistor do? Also, how do I test the first 3 items and what values should I be seeing when I test for continuity?
Let me know if you need more detail/info and I'll do what I can. Thanks,
-Tim
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Originally Posted by: walt0132 ...If I understand things correctly, the problem may be in either the heating element itself, the thermodisc, the thermistor, or the the main control board...
...Could you help me out by explaining a little more about what the thermodisc and thermistor do?...
...how do I test the first 3 items and what values should I be seeing when I test for continuity?... Hi Tim, You are absolutely right. All these parts are in question and have to be tested. The thermodisk (#621 at the diagram) is actually the overtemperature thermostat which opens at 140°F to protect the liner from overheating. The evaporator thermistor (on top of the evaporator) controls the temperature during the defrost cycle. You can test all of these three parts from the main control board. The evaporator has to be ice cold at this time. Unplug the refrigerator and remove the cover from the control board. Remove the wire from the J9 terminal and measure resistance between this wire and the wire connected to the J7-9 pin. Normal reading should be 22+ Ohms. If the reading is incorrect, remove the rear panel inside the freezer and check separately the defrost heater and the thermodisk for continuity. If the reading is correct, check the evaporator thermistor. Unplug the J1 connector and measure resistance between wires connected to the J1-4 and J1-5. Measure the temperature inside the freezer at the same time. The table with the thermistor values is attached. Actually this thermistor is very inexpensive and would not hurt to replace it in any case. If all of these part checked OK, replace the main control board. - The defrost heater Part number: WR50X10042
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We have a Samsung Model number RS267LABP that is not cooling correctly. My husband thinks there are seperate cooling systems in this model. Is that information correct? It is freezing the system solid and then allowing the fridge to warm up. What do you think we should replace?
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Almost a year ago I had the non-cool fridge problem, I vacuumed the underneath, and pulled the cover and defrosted with a blow dryer. I now keep a thermometer in the fridge, it seems to just not act right. for a while now it would get to 42 or so and I would adjust the dial, (just a bit) and in a few hours it would be 25. Now it's been at 42 for 2 days. I just did the vac and defrost be neither seemed to have anything on it. I started to take the screw out of the piece that hold the adjustment dials and I noticed the fan come on, I'm guessing it's now gonna freeze down to 20 or so. I have an electrical background, and good test equipment. Any help on what to test would be great.
Thanks
Brac
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Hi Brac,
What is the complete model number of the refrigerator?
Gene.
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Sorry for not posting it, it is FRS26R4CW0
Just got home and fridge is 20 degrees
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The problem can be a bad cold control, a bad damper control, a bad adaptive defrost control of any combinations of them. Also Frigidaire does not sell the damper control separate. It comes as a part of the control box kit which includes all control parts. It cost a bit more than a single part from the above list but it will make the repair much more reliable. - The control box kit Part number: 5304482075
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Gene, Somehow when I got this fridge I ended up with a spare Ice maker an Electrolux 240352409. Could I send this as a partial trade? It has never been opened.
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So, I have found that when it starts to get around 40 degrees if I smack the control box, it starts blowing cold air. Any chance of a bad connection or something on the damper?
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