Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2011(UTC) Posts: 8
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Still need help:
OK, so have done thorough testing and the following applies:
Lint chute and flex pipe and pipe to outside are clean. Check Blower wheel and housing clean. Check Incoming wiring harness has 240v and 120v each side. Check Dryer thermal fuse has good continuity. Check Dryer cycle thermostat good continuity. Check Thermal cut-off and hi-limit thermostat good continuity. Check Heater element has 9.5 ohms resistance and is clean with no breaks and is not shorted to case. Check Felt seal around drum is in good shape and seals well. Check No continuity across the hi and low side of the temperature switch? Center position has continuity.
Moving to the Voltage side we have: Zero volts across the temperature switch while dryer is running at red wires. Zero volts at the heater element at red wires. Zero volts across the red and black wires at the control timer while running.
Seems to me a lack of voltage across the control timer wires indicates the control timer has failed. everything else seems to check out with the exception of the control board, which I don't know how to check or what to look for either in resistance or voltage. I have ordered a new temperature switch, but due to it's mechanical function, feel this is not the problem. I am perplexed about the lack of resistance at the switch though. On digital meter it just reads infinity on both the outside settings. (SB under 10,000 on low and over 10000 on high)
Any further items I might have missed? Any and all suggestions welcome.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC) Posts: 2,277
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So your dryer runs, but does not heat.
If you do not have voltage at the 'R' terminal on the timer when it should be heating then you have a bad timer. Looking at the tech sheet the 'R' terminal has the red wire plugged into it.
Other wise the problem could be with the 1M and 2M contacts on the motor switch.
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2011(UTC) Posts: 8
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Kind of what I was thinking, since no voltage was detectable from there. Also checked the L1 terminal and continuity stopped there as well. I'll pick up a new part tomorrow and let you know how it goes. Thanks!
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 5/27/2011(UTC) Posts: 8
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Long story short. It was not the timer. Connection at the motor had vibrated loose and top end was not fully seated. Once the connection was locked down everything worked as advertised. Had I not checked the 1M and 2M contacts I would still be scratching my head. Many thanks.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 7/24/2007(UTC) Posts: 2,277
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Glad you found the problem, Happy Holidays
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