Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/23/2009(UTC)
Posts: 3
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If anyone has been keeping up with my saga, here's the final outcome.
My dryer would only run while the start switch was held on. I traced the problem to a faulty idler switch. This switch acts as a safety if your belt breaks. When tension drops off of the idler pulley the switch opens up and your dryer won't run. I checked the switch with a continuity meter and the held the leads together and let the dryer run.
Now here's why I'm posting my comments:
My local appliance parts supplier wanted to sell a replacement switch to me for $68.00. Online they go for anywhere from $50 to $75.
Since there is absolutley nothing special about this switch, I went looking elsewhere.
I found the EXACT same switch at my local Grainger Supply house for...
$3.24
If anyone else has this same dryer problem, please don't get caught overpaying for a switch that can be bought elsewhere for about 1/20th of the cost.
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Senior Expert
Joined: 3/29/2009(UTC)
Posts: 11,699
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Hi Robo
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing your diagnosis and repair with us. It is not often we see a failed broken belt switch, so your post was very illuminating and instructive.
Thanks again, and good luck with your dryer
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