Here are the parts
Replacement parts for WHIRLPOOL LER4634JQ0 | AppliancePartsPros.com

Here is the wiring diagram
http://www.servicematters.com/docs/wiring/wiring_main.htm

When you checked the devices did you remove a wire from at least one side of it just to ensure you are not reading an alternate/parallel circuit path.

high limit thermo i had a reading of 9.6 that is at the heater element i also checked the element inside the case it gave a reading of 9.7
Not sure what you are doing here the high limit should be 0 ohms.
Unless you are measuring from one side of the heating element to the far side of the high limit

I assume the thermal fuse you checked was the one on the heater assy as this unit has 2 thermal fuses.

The only things left in the heater circuit is the centrifugal switch and the Timer Switch 2 contacts.
The timer contacts can be checked with the unit unplugged.
Another way to check it would be to clip one meter lead to the Black wire on Timer Switch 2 and then work your way back through the circuit.
Should be 0 ohms till the far side of the heater where it should be 9.6 ohms.
Then all that is left is the centrifugal switch.

the thermo at the bottom of the case read 9.6 i think that one went to the element

All thermostats should read 0 ohms at room temperature.
If you had 9.6 then it is a problem if it is Item 15 Section 3 in the parts.

The only exception is the cycling thermostat Item 20 Section 3 (on the blower) as it has a built in heater. One set of thermostat external contacts are the heater approximately 7,000 ohms and the other external contacts are the internal contacts 0 ohms at room temperature.

the high limit thermo is the one giving me the reading of 9.6 now thats testing across the terminals on the thermo now is it still an issue should i be getting a 0.0 read out.
Yes, you should get 0 ohms.I would replace it

also the cycling thermo "on the heater case" is giving a read out of 0.0 on the external prongs OL on the inner prongs of the thermo should i change them both thermos or are they correct .
Not sure what OL is. Could mean that it is outside the readability of the meter. Try a higher ohms scale for instance the 20 K (kilohms) scale.
The heaters resistance (~7 Kohms) is too high to be read on a 200 ohm or a 2 Kohms scale. These are just the scales on my meter yours may differ.

I really appreciate the help also tell me were i can make a small donation for the cause it is worth every penny
Do not worry about the donation, though Roman (the fellow from AppliancePartsPro) I am sure would appreciate your order

Don't say thanks till it is fixed, we would not want to jinx it.

Don't give up so easy.
Check the timer contacts or do the circuit check from the black on the timer to the far side of the heater as I outlined earlier.

There is one way to tell for sure.
Take the two wires that go to the thermostat
Short them together
Tape them up so they cannot short to the frame
Plug the unit in and give it a try