Just do the lower one (High Limit Thermostat)

This is the one that was reading 9.6 ohms and the parts store said it was OK, correct?

Cedric

We are missing something that is very simple here but I am having difficulty trying to figure out what it is.

Your earlier measurement from timer black does not really make any difference. The only set of timer contacts that have an impact on getting heat are TIMER SWITCH 2 (Red to Black), lower left hand side of the wiring diagram.

This is a long shot but recheck that you are getting 240 volts.

If OK
Unplug the unit, put it in timed dry, high heat, 50 minutes, use a low meter scale.
Tape or somehow attach one meter lead to the Black wire on the timer.
Do not move this, it stays there for all of the following
Read to the Red wire on the timer, Should be 0 ohms
If OK
Read to the upper thermostat on the heater (Cutoff), both sides should read 0 ohms.
If OK
Read to the outer contacts of the thermostat on the blower (Operating), both sides should read 0 ohms.
If OK
Read to the lower thermostat on the heater (Hi Limit), both sides should read 0
If OK
Read to the heater contacts, one should be 0 ohm, the other should be 8 to 9 ohms
If OK

I am totally stumped now!!!
Because you have read the entire circuit path except the centrifugal switch which you have already checked.

Here is the wiring diagram
https://www.servicematters.com/d...0Sheet%20-%203406688.pdf
I just noticed that my original link is NG, have added this so it is handy for me.

After checking the timer i have no reading at the timer at all,timer was set in timed dry 50 min i got no reading at the red and black wire lower left hand corner, "right above the red wire on the timer" , dryer was unplugged

OK this does look like a problem try it again at 10 minutes.
I just want to make sure that we are not at a cool down point near the end of the cycle.

If R to BK is still an open circuit then this would stop the unit from heating and you need a new timer.