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Joined: 7/28/2011(UTC)
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We've had this dryer for a few years. It's been reliable up until now. Okay, let me start off by saying, AFTER I started working on it, my wife decided to let me know that it had standing water in it and she decided to use it anyway before it tore up. I'm not sure what effect that would have had, but anyway:
The dryer will not heat up. At first it ran for hours without even getting warm. I took it apart, read the heating element for continuity (also took it out and gave it a lookover), also the 2 thermostats on the element housing, and also the thermistor and thermostat on the blower housing. Everything read fine. The blower is blowing hard out of the vent so that should be fine.
The unit has 120 going in both leads on the pig tail.
The only thing that has changed after messing around with it, is that it will not run continuously now. It runs for a few seconds and gives me HE error, which is supposed to indicate a lint clog or thermistor problem. I have traced every inch of exhaust and the thermistor is reading 11K ohms.
Where do I go from here? Please help!!
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 816
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Hello . The first thing you will need to check if the thermistor is good, is the heater relay on the PCB board. It should have a blue and black wire going to it. Test there and see if you have 240 volts with the unit turned on. If not, you will need to replace the PCB board. The HE code is for a heater error. If there is 240 volts at the relay, you will need to test ant the heater and trace and see where your loosing voltage at. Hope this helps. Part number: AP4244205
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/28/2011(UTC)
Posts: 4
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Hey, thanks for the help! I measured 118 volts at the black lead running in the heater relay and 0 volts on the out side. Upon startup, the blue (out) wire would read 2 volts and then zero out. Do I need to replace the entire board?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 816
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Based on the information you provided, it sounds like the board will need to be replaced. Hope this helps.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/28/2011(UTC)
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Thanks! I recieved and installed the board. Now, I am getting 120 in and 120 out. But still getting an error message HE. I'm afraid I've unplugged the heating element and all the thermostats and wired it back up wrong. I know this is a long shot, but does anyone know how it's supposed to go?
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
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Hello smjbrules. Based on the wiring diagram, you should have a blue wire going from the heater relay, down to the TH3 Thermostat cut off. Then a black wire goes from the TH3 Thermostat to the TH2 Thermostat high limit. From the high limit it goes to the heater. Then the heater has a red wire that goes to the motor. This makes up the heating circuit. Hope this helps.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 7/28/2011(UTC)
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Okay, so I ordered the board and installed it. The black wire put back on the "on" terminal on the heater relay and the blue on the "common". It read 120 on the "on" and 120 on the "common" terminal (when the blue wire was not attached). So I tried to run the dryer and got the same error as before. That's when I asked for the wiring to the heating element. I had it hooked up right. So I went back to the board and now I'm getting 120 going in and the common terminal is reading no voltage. I may just be in over my head. Did I burn the new board up?!!?!?
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/8/2014(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Same model dryer....same no heat issue. I want to clarify how you are measuring the 240 volts at the pcb board relay. I'm getting 120 volts off of each relay wire (black & blue wire) to ground. Same thing at the power cord connector block. If I understand you correctly that these readings must be 240 volts across the relay to ground or are we talking a combined total of 120v to grd+120v to grd = a total of 240v? I bought a new pcb...same readings and still no heat. The motor revs up....I measure 120v to grd at all the heater box connectors as well as through the motors centrical switch wires (red) at the motor connector block. The heat element is 10 ohms...each of the three thermostats are under 1 ohm. The thermistor is 15k ohms but so does the new one I bought. I have the drum off so I can get at everything easily as well. That shouldn't make a difference troubleshooting wise....should it? I'm at a loss hear as to the cause of this no heat problem unless the new pcb Samsung sent me is defective. Please advise.....I'm at a loss hear. thanks Steve
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Moderators
Joined: 2/14/2011(UTC)
Posts: 816
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Hello Steve. No, you will measure for 120 volts from the relay and the other 120 is from the motor. This gives you your 240 volts at the heater when you measure across both heater wires.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 1/8/2014(UTC)
Posts: 7
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Does this dryer have a fuse element...if so were would I find it? I want to make sure I understand you correctly about getting 240 volts to the heat element red and blue wire. Does the 120 volt blue wire come down from the pcb board relay to one side of the heat element. And does the 120 volts on the red wire at the heat element comes directly of the line 2 input feeder then goes through the motor centrifugal switch then to the other side of the heat element? Hence we have two 120 volt inputs to the heater element. Is that correct? This no heat trouble is really strange.
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