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mitro  
#1 Posted : Monday, June 20, 2011 5:57:25 AM(UTC)
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mitro

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3

I have a question regarding the blog post found here: <title>Kitchenaid Range, F6E4 Error and Smoke

I had the exact same thing occur with my range and I am about to make the repair. My question is; by any chance did this event reoccur with the customer? I'm concerned that something else caused the short/power draw and I'm about to smoke another controller board. Would an inline fuse help in such a circumstance?
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Joe / APP Team  
#2 Posted : Monday, June 20, 2011 8:16:43 AM(UTC)
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Joe / APP Team

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Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
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Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: mitro Go to Quoted Post
I have a question regarding the blog post found here: <title>Kitchenaid Range, F6E4 Error and Smoke

I had the exact same thing occur with my range and I am about to make the repair. My question is; by any chance did this event reoccur with the customer? I'm concerned that something else caused the short/power draw and I'm about to smoke another controller board. Would an inline fuse help in such a circumstance?


Mitro,

It may have been as simple as a moisture or heat issue.
But probably not.

I don't see installing an in line fuse, helping with your situation, a surge protector may help, but that would be your decision.

Here's an excerpt from the service manual, it should help you out as far as getting your range diagnosed and repaired.

F6
E4 LOST COMMUNICATION
PROCEDURE:
A. Unplug range or disconnect power.
B.


Open the back panels and make sure the P2 connector is fully plugged in on the
power board and on the display board.
If it is not, plug it in to the connector and go to step F.
If it is plugged in, go to step C.
C.


Visually inspect all the four wires between P2 on the power board and P2 on the
display board. Make sure the wires are not cut or pinched. If the wires appear
to be intact, perform a continuity check between pin 4 of the power board and pin 4
of the display board. Do the same for pins 1, 2, & 5. Both of these checks should
result in a reading of less than 5


&#937;.
If either of these checks fail, go to step E.
If these checks pass, reconnect P2, then go to step D.
D.


Replace the power board. Ensure all connectors are properly seated and then go
to step F.
E.


Replace the wiring harness (signal) and go to step F.
F.


Ensure all wiring connections are made. Replace the back panels.
G.


Plug in range or reconnect power. Observe for longer than 1 minute.
H.


If error does not appear, initiate a bake cycle. Let the cycle run at least 1 minute.
If no error occurs, cancel the cycle. The problem has been repaired.
If the error occurs again, restart the troubleshooting procedure at step A (except
in step D replace the display board if power board has already been replaced).


Chances are pretty good you'll need a power board.


Part number: AP3882816

Good Luck,


:) :) :)


Joe / APP Team  
#3 Posted : Monday, June 20, 2011 8:23:05 AM(UTC)
Quote
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: mitro Go to Quoted Post
I have a question regarding the blog post found here: <title>Kitchenaid Range, F6E4 Error and Smoke

I had the exact same thing occur with my range and I am about to make the repair. My question is; by any chance did this event reoccur with the customer? I'm concerned that something else caused the short/power draw and I'm about to smoke another controller board. Would an inline fuse help in such a circumstance?


Mitro,

It may have been as simple as a moisture or heat issue.
But probably not.

I don't see installing an in line fuse, helping with your situation, a surge protector may help, but that would be your decision.

Here's an excerpt from the service manual, it should help you out as far as getting your range diagnosed and repaired.

F6
E4 LOST COMMUNICATION
PROCEDURE:
A. Unplug range or disconnect power.
B.


Open the back panels and make sure the P2 connector is fully plugged in on the
power board and on the display board.
If it is not, plug it in to the connector and go to step F.
If it is plugged in, go to step C.
C.


Visually inspect all the four wires between P2 on the power board and P2 on the
display board. Make sure the wires are not cut or pinched. If the wires appear
to be intact, perform a continuity check between pin 4 of the power board and pin 4
of the display board. Do the same for pins 1, 2, & 5. Both of these checks should
result in a reading of less than 5


&#937;.
If either of these checks fail, go to step E.
If these checks pass, reconnect P2, then go to step D.
D.


Replace the power board. Ensure all connectors are properly seated and then go
to step F.
E.


Replace the wiring harness (signal) and go to step F.
F.


Ensure all wiring connections are made. Replace the back panels.
G.


Plug in range or reconnect power. Observe for longer than 1 minute.
H.


If error does not appear, initiate a bake cycle. Let the cycle run at least 1 minute.
If no error occurs, cancel the cycle. The problem has been repaired.
If the error occurs again, restart the troubleshooting procedure at step A (except
in step D replace the display board if power board has already been replaced).


Chances are pretty good you'll need a power board.


Part number: AP3882816

Good Luck,


:) :) :)


mitro  
#4 Posted : Monday, June 20, 2011 8:28:44 AM(UTC)
Quote
mitro

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3

Joe,
Thank you for the reply. When I said I had the same issue, I meant that my controller board looked the same as the one in the blog post...i.e. crispy. :D

The difference is that my oven was not in use when it self destructed, hence my concern of root cause.
Joe / APP Team  
#5 Posted : Monday, June 20, 2011 11:12:11 AM(UTC)
Quote
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: mitro Go to Quoted Post
Joe,
Thank you for the reply. When I said I had the same issue, I meant that my controller board looked the same as the one in the blog post...i.e. crispy. :D

The difference is that my oven was not in use when it self destructed, hence my concern of root cause.


Mitro,

Yes, I understood, Your range does not have to be "ON" for a short to occur, and the board to burn. As long as power is supplied to the range the boards are active, and can short, due to several possible problems, power surge, moisture, loose connections, etc.

In your case, it would be an "educated guess" and process of elimination.

the post you supplied was very informative and precise.


:cool: :cool: :cool:
mitro  
#6 Posted : Monday, June 27, 2011 1:36:33 PM(UTC)
Quote
mitro

Rank: Member

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/20/2011(UTC)
Posts: 3

Just as a quick update: The controller board was all that was needed to be replaced, and the range is again operational.

thanks!
Joe / APP Team  
#7 Posted : Monday, June 27, 2011 2:12:50 PM(UTC)
Quote
Joe / APP Team

Rank: Advanced Member

Groups: Moderators
Joined: 7/14/2010(UTC)
Posts: 5,222

Was thanked: 1 time(s) in 1 post(s)
Originally Posted by: mitro Go to Quoted Post
Just as a quick update: The controller board was all that was needed to be replaced, and the range is again operational.

thanks!


Mitro,

Thank you, for the update.
We're glad you're up and running.

Thanks, again,

:) :) :)
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